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Post by dbarrow on Mar 5, 2015 15:39:07 GMT -8
I am putting together my first AR. I have decided on an 18" BHW barrel. I am just unsure of the gas length and contour. From the beginning of my research I was set on rifle length, SPR profile. However, I am concerned with reliability of rifle gas system.
After reviewing BHW contours, I am torn between light, standard, SPR.
The gun will be used for bench shooting out to 400 yards, maybe to 600 if the range is extended. I would also like to do some 3 gun type shooting, though not competitively.
I will probably get into hand loads, but will start out with factory ammo. Maybe like some hornady vmax 55gr or some type of plinking ammo.
What gas system and profile would you guys recommend?
Thanks
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2015 16:03:30 GMT -8
I would suggest an 18" standard profile and a mid length gas system. For three gun, I would thread the barrel so you can use a brake for better muzzle control.
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Post by dbarrow on Mar 5, 2015 16:20:55 GMT -8
Thank you.
I was wanting a houge rifle length overmold forend with a picatinny gas block. I may have to reconsider hand guard options.
Do you suggest the mid length for reliability?
If so, can a rifle length be made more reliable with an enlarged gas port/adjustable gas block and/or low mass bcg?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 6, 2015 7:44:39 GMT -8
Thank you. I was wanting a houge rifle length overmold forend with a picatinny gas block. I may have to reconsider hand guard options. Do you suggest the mid length for reliability? If so, can a rifle length be made more reliable with an enlarged gas port/adjustable gas block and/or low mass bcg? The mid length gas is going to be easier to deal with as a plug and play option. The rifle length can be made reliable, but will take some work. The difference in the recoil pulse, in my opinion is not enough to worry about. I am also not a huge fan of the Houge hand guard. The only way to install it is with a strap wrench. There is not a barrel nut wrench, that I am aware of that you can reliably tighten the nut with. If you are going to use your upper to shoot 3 gun, the last thing you want is a failure to feed or worse, a jamb and have to drop a magazine to clear it.
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Mar 6, 2015 15:42:30 GMT -8
I've shot a tad of the 3Gun stuff over the last three decades and can hold my own still. I use 20" guns in 223 and 6X45 exclusively. I have only dipped down to a 17.5" 6X45 that my wife shoots, full custom, on rare occasions and really didn't see any advantage in the short tube. Reliability is king in these and If I were going 18" I would go mid. I would put a good BTE FF tube on it in the proper lenght if I just had to have the GB showing. George makes super GB's too and ad are run on every build I have done in the past two years and I have done a few..LOL
Oddly enough I am in the process of replacing my original,circa 1992, 6X45 barrel I got out of a pawn shop in Eastern Oklahoma. The first 6X45 to shoot IPSC matches in Oklahoma but certainly not the last. Mine will be a 20" rifle gas, standrd weight, threaded and machine finish. I will probably put a BTE trigger in it though I do love the custom 2 pounder in there now. The current barrel shoots OK but when you can use a scalpel vs a butcher knife I'll go for elegant all day long on those 3" exposure targets at 200 yards.
Bump fire on a stage hurts the score but man can you hit those 350 yards 8" plates. I ran five 4" plates at 200 in a Dinoasaur Valley regional 3Gun in 5.35 seconds from standing to prone with it using that trigger. (I won that stage)
None of my guns are fancy. Just a basic free float tube, a quaility barrel with brake and a good trigger. I have used Hogue tubes but am getting them replaced as I go as the three piece units are so much nicer and cost no more than the Hogue from BTE. I've used Youngs in the past and had good reults too with them. I gave up running pictanny (sp) front rails as I don't run any back up irons. I like the looks of George's adjustable smooth top blocks. I will run a scope and maybe a red dot on the side. I like two optics and did some pioneering in that in the early 90's. Thinking outside the shooting box pays dividends.. El Pres with a dot is so much faster and a string of five to 10 yarders you have to run by are devastating to most scope users.
Just some thoughts and meanderings.
Greg
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Post by dbarrow on Mar 6, 2015 17:12:48 GMT -8
Thanks for the info guys. I am pretty sure I will go with the mid length now. I really just want an accurate all around rifle. Like I said, I will not be shooting 3 gun competitively. I just think that would be enjoyable type of shooting.
I was thinking 15" MI SS gen 2 or Troy Vtac rail if I went mid length. However these BTE rails are half the price. What is the difference in the BTE and the two previously mentioned rails. I may want BUIS, a bipod, a flash light or whatever. I would like those options if needed.
I would still like to know what it takes to make the rifle length reliable.
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Mar 6, 2015 17:39:10 GMT -8
Less cheese grater. More elegant rail set up. Made by our industry partner and a friend of mine.
A drill bit and patience will make the 18 rifle run. Some will run from the get go depending on the loads. Others not so much.
Greg
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Post by dbarrow on Mar 7, 2015 6:26:22 GMT -8
BHW had the 18" standard profile mid length ready to ship. Placed the order last night.
Greg, where do you find the BTE hand guards? At the BTE website, they say coming soon.
How are the rails sections added to the BTE hand gaurd?
Also, should I get an adjustable gas block for this barrel?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2015 6:52:13 GMT -8
BHW had the 18" standard profile mid length ready to ship. Placed the order last night. Greg, where do you find the BTE hand guards? At the BTE website, they say coming soon. How are the rails sections added to the BTE hand gaurd? Also, should I get an adjustable gas block for this barrel? A phone call to BTE will get you what you need. His web site guy moves at a snail's pace. The rails are attached via machine screws, making them completely customizable. Greg and I run BTE adjustable gas blocks on all our rifles. The extra cost for the adjustable is worth the piece of mind.
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Post by dbarrow on Mar 16, 2015 7:46:43 GMT -8
I have decided to go with the syrac ordnance has block. Do I need the set scrrw model or the clamp on? Thanks
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2015 8:53:19 GMT -8
I have decided to go with the syrac ordnance has block. Do I need the set scrrw model or the clamp on? Thanks Save your money. The Syrac has a reputation of locking up after being shot. The adjustment knob seizes up as does the detent ball, making them inoperable. As for the clamp on set screw question I personally like the clamp on version.
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evanh
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Post by evanh on Apr 12, 2015 17:53:00 GMT -8
I have decided to go with the syrac ordnance has block. Do I need the set scrrw model or the clamp on? Thanks Save your money. The Syrac has a reputation of locking up after being shot. The adjustment knob seizes up as does the detent ball, making them inoperable. As for the clamp on set screw question I personally like the clamp on version. I am in the same boat with wanting to get a Mk12 barrel. I am looking at shooting factory loads, like lake city and black hills. I have been kind of set on a rifle length mostly because I have it now, but I am wanting a barrel swap from my 24(bushmaster) down the the Mk12 18". I have been looking at the PRI flip up front sight gas block(non-adjustable). How big of a hole is the gas port on the barrel? I quoted what you said about the syrac only because I am curious, as I had been looking at it, and then saw you said that. Does it clog up and cause the gun to not fire, or just no ability to adjust when you want to change?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2015 18:27:45 GMT -8
Save your money. The Syrac has a reputation of locking up after being shot. The adjustment knob seizes up as does the detent ball, making them inoperable. As for the clamp on set screw question I personally like the clamp on version. I am in the same boat with wanting to get a Mk12 barrel. I am looking at shooting factory loads, like lake city and black hills. I have been kind of set on a rifle length mostly because I have it now, but I am wanting a barrel swap from my 24(bushmaster) down the the Mk12 18". I have been looking at the PRI flip up front sight gas block(non-adjustable). How big of a hole is the gas port on the barrel? I quoted what you said about the syrac only because I am curious, as I had been looking at it, and then saw you said that. Does it clog up and cause the gun to not fire, or just no ability to adjust when you want to change? The Syrac has a ball and spring type detent. A little carbon fouling and its locked up. Do yourself a favor and buy a BTE adjustable. Add a drop of high temp RTV and your set. I have never seen a screw with silicone lock up or back out on its own. The BTE does the same job for around 60% less money.
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evanh
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Post by evanh on Apr 13, 2015 5:07:10 GMT -8
I am in the same boat with wanting to get a Mk12 barrel. I am looking at shooting factory loads, like lake city and black hills. I have been kind of set on a rifle length mostly because I have it now, but I am wanting a barrel swap from my 24(bushmaster) down the the Mk12 18". I have been looking at the PRI flip up front sight gas block(non-adjustable). How big of a hole is the gas port on the barrel? I quoted what you said about the syrac only because I am curious, as I had been looking at it, and then saw you said that. Does it clog up and cause the gun to not fire, or just no ability to adjust when you want to change? The Syrac has a ball and spring type detent. A little carbon fouling and its locked up. Do yourself a favor and buy a BTE adjustable. Add a drop of high temp RTV and your set. I have never seen a screw with silicone lock up or back out on its own. The BTE does the same job for around 60% less money. For the price the BTE cant be beat. Been doing a lot of searching. High temp black, red, or copper, RTV? But also, what is the gas port size on the barrel? And what do you recommend for attachment style? Clamp or set screw mount? Are these barrels checked for headspace? Do I need to do that? I have noticed a lot of people on multiple forums suggesting the 18" barrel get a mid length gas system. I'm new to the customization realm and trying to use google and youtube to learn more. I have always been kind of a if it isn't broke don't fix it guy, but more and more seem to say standard rifle length is finicky. Is it mostly people who want to shoot lighter loads that have the cycle problems?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2015 5:45:01 GMT -8
The Syrac has a ball and spring type detent. A little carbon fouling and its locked up. Do yourself a favor and buy a BTE adjustable. Add a drop of high temp RTV and your set. I have never seen a screw with silicone lock up or back out on its own. The BTE does the same job for around 60% less money. For the price the BTE cant be beat. Been doing a lot of searching. High temp black, red, or copper, RTV? But also, what is the gas port size on the barrel? And what do you recommend for attachment style? Clamp or set screw mount? Are these barrels checked for headspace? Do I need to do that? I have noticed a lot of people on multiple forums suggesting the 18" barrel get a mid length gas system. I'm new to the customization realm and trying to use google and youtube to learn more. I have always been kind of a if it isn't broke don't fix it guy, but more and more seem to say standard rifle length is finicky. Is it mostly people who want to shoot lighter loads that have the cycle problems? The color of the RTV is personal. I use the red but that's just me. Your head space is set when the barrel is made. You can check it if you like, but there is no way you will be able to change it. Once it's chambered it's a done deal. IIRC the gas port size on a standard profile made for a .750 gas block is .073 on a carbine length, .085 on a mid length and .100 on a rifle length.
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