lerms
Senior Member
Posts: 113
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Post by lerms on Oct 3, 2015 7:31:07 GMT -8
Like the title says I'm just getting started in reloading. I got the Lee reloading kit with the hand priming unit, Lee, Hornady, Nosler and Lyman reloading books and I found a Forster case trimmer used for $30. Still considering using a wet tumbler
but not sure if I want to make one or just buy one. I got a digital scale coming in the mail and some die's. So what am I missing? Was thinking of getting a flashhole tool and the neck turning unit for the case trimmer.
Anyone know were I can find a #1 collet for the forster trimmer? I checked Midway, Brownells, Sinclair, Midsouth shooters and Natchez but there all out of stock.
I plan on reloading for my 223 and 264lbc, I know I'm going to use 69 and 77gr smks for one of my 223's but my carbine I was thinking some cheap plinking ammo, I found on Midway some SS109 pills but wasn't sure how great they are in reloads. I know manufactured 855's are fun to shoot but really not to accurate, anyone have any experience with loading these?
I was going to order some IMR8208, IMR4895 and some TAC for these two calibers but considering I'm just getting started would it be wiser to just order the 8208 and go from there? I live in the south east but shoot in northern Michigan in the winter so it seems like the 8208 would be a good choice to me.
Lerms
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Oct 3, 2015 9:34:57 GMT -8
Lube (Hornady One Shot or Imperial Sizing wax for low numbers) , calipers, cartridge head space gauges, bullet comparator (both from Hornady), deburring tool, NOTEBOOKS. STUCK CASE REMOVER. I don't know what kind of powder measure your kit has but I suspect you will be upgrading very soon. The RCBS Uniflo is good with a micrometer adjustment added to it. I highly recommend the Hornady dies if you don't want to go full bore bushing style dies.
No neck turning needed at this point plus you don't want to use the Forster. It is a pain!!! Look at the basic set up from Sinclair.
Flash hole tool is good but make sure you get one for PPC BRASS!!!! The flash holes are smaller on the good Lapua Grendel and your regular tool won't fit through the hole though in all honesty that stuff hardly ever needs cleaning up like the Hornady. The holes are DRILLED not punched.
Last I dealt with them FORSTER would sell direct for parts.
Look at Shooters Pro Shop for good bullets and Midway has a sale on blems right now. The 109's are good for plinking. I'll leave it at that.
Get all three powders. One size doesn't fit all when it comes to performance across the gamut of bullet and chamberings. 8208 is good but not the Holy Grail all the time.
You want 7 1/2 or 450 primers.
Just some ideas.
Greg
Oh, one last thing... Ask anything you want. Someone on here can help you out on every avenue. Make sure you read the Lyman Manual for the Reloading area. Very well done IMHO.
One last last thing is get a chronograph if you can swing it. A super addition to give you valuable data as you go.
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lerms
Senior Member
Posts: 113
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Post by lerms on Oct 3, 2015 10:59:31 GMT -8
I got some Imperial Sizing wax on the way and already have deburring tools, notebooks and about 5 different sets of calipers. I honestly didn't think of the comparator but was about to order the sinclair seating depth gauge and guide for the ar rifles plus the sinclair chamber length gauge's. So to my understanding the sinclair seating depth gauge measures from the case head to the bullet ogive in the chamber of the rifle which tells you the max length to the lands. So the bullet comparator would help use that measurement to set the seating die's right?
Lerms
Oh yeah and I do have plans to get a chronograph just not sure what one would be the best for me.
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lerms
Senior Member
Posts: 113
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Post by lerms on Oct 3, 2015 11:12:54 GMT -8
Greg, you said I want want 7 1/2 or 450 primers, the 7 1/2 are remington bench rest primers and the 450 is CCI small rifle mag primers right? All my books say to not use any magnum primers in 223 or the grendel case. Is this not true? Or did I miss read something somewhere?
Lerms
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Post by bobatl on Oct 3, 2015 11:33:32 GMT -8
.... Oh yeah and I do have plans to get a chronograph just not sure what one would be the best for me.... MagnetoSpeed V3, it can be used indoors and in low light and don't have to shut down the range to set up or take down. Plus the data is easy to copy from SD card to a laptop. Worth every penny..
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lerms
Senior Member
Posts: 113
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Post by lerms on Oct 3, 2015 11:49:53 GMT -8
I'll give it a look babatl, the biggest thing I have to look at is our range you shoot trough cement tubes for the first 25 feet and then the bullets go into open range. They are building a new range that won't have this ... not sure what to call it, but with the tube anything with a cable going back to the shooter is out.
Lerms
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Oct 3, 2015 12:36:03 GMT -8
Greg, you said I want want 7 1/2 or 450 primers, the 7 1/2 are remington bench rest primers and the 450 is CCI small rifle mag primers right? All my books say to not use any magnum primers in 223 or the grendel case. Is this not true? Or did I miss read something somewhere? Lerms From the previous post yes the tool measures to the ogive from the base and the comparator will let you duplicate that seating dept a lot more easily as the use of the bullet tip measurement can vary quite a bit from bullet to bullet. You did not miss read but it is far from hard and fast. We use those two primers routinely because they handle the high pressure and give you a bit more cushion in that area. The 6.8 variants and 223's can push the envelope. Also you do get some better burning with it. The AR platform with it's floating firing pin can be a bit problematic. That is why Remington says to NOT use the 6 1/2's. They recommend the 7 1/2. Winchester SR's are also prone to piercing by report. That thicker cup only comes in the magnum versions. It makes no difference in the loading as you are working them up not just slinging components together. Additionally in the real world some ball powders need a better spark in cold weather and these two give that spark. SD numbers seem to improve also when you look at the data. Ritch loves 45-0's and I like 7 1/2's. I bought another 1000 450's the other day as I do want to run some parallel testing. Greg
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Post by bobatl on Oct 3, 2015 13:15:21 GMT -8
.. not sure what to call it, but with the tube anything with a cable going back to the shooter is out. Lerms
You can see how it clips on to the end of a barrel. All the stuff is right at the rifle, where you need it. No long cables going out into the "hot" range. The brass rod I use for alignment, the bullet needs to travel about 1/4" above the wand thingy.. Mine hasn't missed a FPS yet !!
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lerms
Senior Member
Posts: 113
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Post by lerms on Oct 4, 2015 4:05:57 GMT -8
That looks pretty neat bobatl. Primary Arms seems to have it on sale too. Thanks
Lerms
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lerms
Senior Member
Posts: 113
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Post by lerms on Oct 4, 2015 7:30:00 GMT -8
I just ordered the last of what I believe I need to get started. As far as powder go's I got some IMR4895, IMR8208xbr, H335 and TAC should be a good start for testing I also got some 69 and 77gr smk's and some 55gr hornady FMJBT and topped off with #450 and CCI srm primers. Once I get all set up and loading I'll order a chronograph. Thanks for the help sure I'll be asking for more soon Lerms
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lerms
Senior Member
Posts: 113
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Post by lerms on Oct 23, 2015 8:29:48 GMT -8
OK I have a few questions for ya'll folks,
1. Using the Sinclair chamber length gauge how far back do you trim your brass from the measurement out of your chamber?
2. Using the Sinclair Seating Depth Gauge how far back you you seat the bullet from the lands?
Thanks for the help again, Lerms
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Oct 23, 2015 9:40:11 GMT -8
OK I have a few questions for ya'll folks, 1. Using the Sinclair chamber length gauge how far back do you trim your brass from the measurement out of your chamber?2. Using the Sinclair Seating Depth Gauge how far back you you seat the bullet from the lands? Thanks for the help again, Lerms 1. You don't trim the brass back. You select a FIRED case that is the proper length to fit in the chamber. The actual OAL of the case has no bearing on the measurements. 2. You seat to what works. On an AR is probably not best to seat into the lands if you don't run a lot of neck tension. Let 0.005 in the lands be your MAX. I am starting to seat 0.005 into the lands then at the lands and finally 0.005 out in steps down to 0.010 out. Four steps of same same powder charge. With a bolt gun you can go a bit more in. Also do not be afraid to let them jump. Sometimes even 0.030 is not too much if you are shooting the Sierras. The groups will tell you along with the chronograph. Greg
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lerms
Senior Member
Posts: 113
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Post by lerms on Oct 23, 2015 9:47:38 GMT -8
On the first question I was referring to the measurement I get from using the tool, do I then trim the brass .005 short of that or more? Pretty sure that trimming to the max length of what I read from using the fired case and tool would be a bad idea.
Lerms
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Oct 23, 2015 10:30:08 GMT -8
On the first question I was referring to the measurement I get from using the tool, do I then trim the brass .005 short of that or more? Pretty sure that trimming to the max length of what I read from using the fired case and tool would be a bad idea. Lerms The tool gives you measurement to the lands and that's it. Trimming case necks to suggested length is fine. You just need a caliper and specs to determine where you stand on trim length. The Sinclair does nothing in that area. I'm confused as to why you would think that trimming the brass would effect the COL of the loaded round. A guy can cheat and trim a neck back a bit if he is up on the bullet ogive and just wants to shoot that bullet but in a normal loading this is not needed nor is it recommended as case neck tension is important. Greg
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lerms
Senior Member
Posts: 113
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Post by lerms on Oct 23, 2015 12:56:08 GMT -8
Yeah I think I got you confused. I'm referring to two different tools from Sinclair. I understand the bullet seating depth gauge but the question is about the chamber Gauge that you insert into a fired case and then insert into the chamber of the rifle, then measuring from the end of the tool to the head of the case to get length of the chamber. Using that measurement do you trim the case .005 short or more? Maybe I'll have to post some pictures.
Thanks Lerms
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