otis45
Junior Member
Posts: 44
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Post by otis45 on Oct 14, 2015 10:32:54 GMT -8
I've been shouting for a while but just now getting into reloading. I've had some reloading gear for a couple years now but been on road a lot during that time and then moved and just now getting it set up. I have done a little bit of reloading of handgun rounds but no rifle or wildcat rounds, nothen to hard. I am now looking at putting together a new rifle in 6X45 or maybe now 6x6.8 or some variant of the 6.8 case. Now how hard are these rounds/calibers to reload. As a greenhorn reloader will I be able to work with these rounds ok? Thanks for any help
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Post by bobatl on Oct 14, 2015 10:57:58 GMT -8
I'm no pro, started with 308, 243, 223, 22-250, then the 6x6.8. It was a learning curve all the way, and trying to load a few for use in both bolt & semi added some spice. If this is you first serious center-fire rifle to reload, you may not want to start with a wildcat. Really depends on how diligent you are in studying all the critical issues. The process can be dangerous, it needs your full attention & focus. So given that bit of caution, I'd start with a standard like 223, then go for a wildcat. One thing you'll want for sure is a simple case gauge (like Wilson $21), and the 6.8 SPC gauge will do fine for the 6x6.8 (tks Greg). The real Pros may kick in, and do pay more attention to them than me ! Good luck, & you'll get plenty help here.
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otis45
Junior Member
Posts: 44
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Post by otis45 on Oct 15, 2015 16:15:16 GMT -8
Thanks for the advice and the help. I do have a lot of other rifle calibers that I can state with first and will probably do that. Now that you been doing it for little bit how is it? How hard or easy was it for you to learn to neck up or down the cases?
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Post by bobatl on Oct 15, 2015 18:19:17 GMT -8
Necking down from 6.8 to 6 is easy with CH4D full size dies. However, an intermediate die helps reduce it with less stress. I started with a single pass and was getting almost 20% loss due shoulder facets and big dimples. With more practice and finding the correct amount of case lube, maybe could cut my single pass loss in half. Then I got a 6.5 die for an intermediate pass and that cut my loss to just a few percent. I think the pros have zero loss, but either way it is still easy..
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Oct 15, 2015 18:21:09 GMT -8
I'll try to write on this tomorrow. Maybe Ritch will chime in too.
Greg
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2015 3:05:50 GMT -8
I have yet to loose a piece of brass, using the CH4D size die. The 6x6.8 is no different to load than the parent 6.8 cased round. The only thing that changes will be the diameter of the bullet. If you are using new brass you should only need 1 die for the neck down process. The biggest problem I have seen people do is use the wrong tools to measure with, and move the shoulder back further than necessary when they form the brass. This leads to several problems when fired, like excessive head space and early brass failure. Buy yourself a Hornady head space gauge to measure your brass with and this wildcat will be as tame to load as a 5.56.
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Post by gaberelli on Oct 16, 2015 3:56:39 GMT -8
I have never lost a piece of brass using a bushing die and 2 bushings with imperial sizing wax. .285 and .267 bushings IIRC.
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otis45
Junior Member
Posts: 44
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Post by otis45 on Oct 16, 2015 7:51:09 GMT -8
Necking down from 6.8 to 6 is easy with CH4D full size dies. However, an intermediate die helps reduce it with less stress. I started with a single pass and was getting almost 20% loss due shoulder facets and big dimples. With more practice and finding the correct amount of case lube, maybe could cut my single pass loss in half. Then I got a 6.5 die for an intermediate pass and that cut my loss to just a few percent. I think the pros have zero loss, but either way it is still easy..
Thanks that's some good info and I'll be sure to keep that stuff in mind. The info on the dies is great. Thanks for the help it's nice getting help and experiences from someone else that is newer to the game as well as the pros
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otis45
Junior Member
Posts: 44
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Post by otis45 on Oct 16, 2015 8:07:46 GMT -8
I have yet to loose a piece of brass, using the CH4D size die. The 6x6.8 is no different to load than the parent 6.8 cased round. The only thing that changes will be the diameter of the bullet. If you are using new brass you should only need 1 die for the neck down process. The biggest problem I have seen people do is use the wrong tools to measure with, and move the shoulder back further than necessary when they form the brass. This leads to several problems when fired, like excessive head space and early brass failure. Buy yourself a Hornady head space gauge to measure your brass with and this wildcat will be as tame to load as a 5.56. Ok thanks that's nice to know that it isn't really any harder to load then anything else. thanks for the info on the head space gage. I'll make sure to get one! I like that you suggested Hornady as well because all my reloading stuff I have so far is Hornady...makes me feel better bout my stuff that you suggest at lest one thing of there's ha. And it will match
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otis45
Junior Member
Posts: 44
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Post by otis45 on Oct 16, 2015 8:08:03 GMT -8
I have never lost a piece of brass using a bushing die and 2 bushings with imperial sizing wax. .285 and .267 bushings IIRC. thanks I'll look into that
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otis45
Junior Member
Posts: 44
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Post by otis45 on Oct 16, 2015 8:10:21 GMT -8
I'm guessing that sizing up for the 6x45 is just as easy as the 6x6.8...
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Post by bobatl on Oct 16, 2015 14:43:17 GMT -8
Yes, I got that die set prior to going with 6x6.8, still have it. The 223 expanded nicely into 6x45 on a couple trial cases.
**************** Success with a single pass 6x6.8 CH4D die finally. I went back over my processes and found that the inner surface of the neck was not getting enough lube. Was more careful in the hand spray of RCBS Case Slick to hit the case & open neck at a 45 degree angle, then further evened out the lube inside with a wet pipe cleaner. Just finished 50 with perfect shoulders, set back 0.005, ** I'm happy *** So another point on the reloading learning curve for me.
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Oct 16, 2015 15:24:42 GMT -8
I'm guessing that sizing up for the 6x45 is just as easy as the 6x6.8... No, it is easier becuse you are necking UP. Just run it through a set of 6X45 dies or a 6MM expander mandrel, like I do, and you are GTG. For reloading fired brass I use a Redding 223 Type S bushing die with the appropriate bushing for 6 MM.(APPROX 267 depending on brass) If you want to go straight standard dies get the Hornady 6MM-223 set, part # 544248 They cots a bucket less $$'s then the RCBS Greg
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otis45
Junior Member
Posts: 44
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Post by otis45 on Oct 17, 2015 7:27:45 GMT -8
Yes, I got that die set prior to going with 6x6.8, still have it. The 223 expanded nicely into 6x45 on a couple trial cases.
**************** Success with a single pass 6x6.8 CH4D die finally. I went back over my processes and found that the inner surface of the neck was not getting enough lube. Was more careful in the hand spray of RCBS Case Slick to hit the case & open neck at a 45 degree angle, then further evened out the lube inside with a wet pipe cleaner. Just finished 50 with perfect shoulders, set back 0.005, ** I'm happy *** So another point on the reloading learning curve for me.
well congrats and nice work!!! I'll make sure now to get inner part of neck lubed good like you did. Do you always use the RCBS spray of have you tried other lubes?
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otis45
Junior Member
Posts: 44
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Post by otis45 on Oct 17, 2015 7:46:37 GMT -8
I'm guessing that sizing up for the 6x45 is just as easy as the 6x6.8... No, it is easier becuse you are necking UP. Just run it through a set of 6X45 dies or a 6MM expander mandrel, like I do, and you are GTG. For reloading fired brass I use a Redding 223 Type S bushing die with the appropriate bushing for 6 MM.(APPROX 267 depending on brass) If you want to go straight standard dies get the Hornady 6MM-223 set, part # 544248 They cots a bucket less $$'s then the RCBS Greg ok thanks that's awesome info! I like Hornady stuff and it's nice they make a set straight setup for it and the fact it's cheaper is great. That being said in all the research that I have done I have come to the thought that the top line RCBS dies are like the best there is. So for my long rang comp guns I figured I'd go with them. Any thoughts or advice on if this is true or if be that much difference? Or witch is the best for this application. I'm not bullseye shouting (not right now any how) just longer rang steel manly
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