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Post by zr600 on Jul 20, 2016 13:24:33 GMT -8
Ok I had a few good loads worked up in my 6x6.8 and now it seems like the accuracy isn't there. At 200 yards it was shooting about 1" groups and .5" groups at 100yards. Now I'm getting like 1.5-2" groups at 100 and about the same at 200 yards. My best group currently is 28g 8208 seated at 2.29 with a hornady 87g hpbt and cci 450 primers, sized with a Redding die with the 267 bushing. The only thing I have changed on the gun is the barrel nut and hand guard. Could this affect the accuracy or did I possibly over torque the barrel nut? Any help would be great.
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Post by peabody on Jul 20, 2016 16:34:18 GMT -8
I think it could. What's the make of the new hand guard? A change in the torque value could alter the barrel harmonics some. But that's a bit of a SWAG on my part. Facing the upper receiver with a lapping tool could help out in one of two ways: - truing the mating surface between the barrel and the receiver face will provide uniform contact between the two, reducing harmonics/movement induced by the barrel shifting during the firing cycle. - you can use the lapping process to trim back the mounting surface on the upper receiver threads a tiny bit to improve the torque value required to achieve barrel nut alignment with the gas tube and port hole in the upper receiver. I.E. you can reduce or increase the torque value to a more favorable point in the torque range by removing some of the receiver face, thus changing the starting/clock position of the threads on the receiver (thousands of an inch). This can also be done using shims. But shims won't true up the mating surface, unless they're soft enough to crush-form to the barrel/receiver gap when torqued. This is the type of lapping tool I've used to true my upper receivers: Wheeler lapping tool. It hasn't done any harm. And I personally think it has helped improve accuracy a bit on several of my uppers by at least 0.5 MOA. However, if you pulled your scope and mount when changing the hand guard and barrel nut, it would'nt hurt to check the torque of the screws. That's the opinion of the armchair quarterback. Food for thought... |
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Post by zr600 on Jul 20, 2016 16:49:20 GMT -8
Well it's a aero precision 15" handguard. But Glshooter gave me a couple ideas and I believe that there's not enough clearance for the gas block and it's hitting during firing. I looked just now and it is almost touching just sitting there so I think I need a new gas block to work with this handguard.
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Post by peabody on Jul 20, 2016 20:09:14 GMT -8
Never thought of that. Yep, that's a real possibility and easier to fix than pulling the barrel. Hope that does the trick!
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Jul 21, 2016 5:44:02 GMT -8
That touching problem is why I have shied away on most of my builds from covering the GB. I prefer adjustable so that will always require a slotted version. I abhor the front adjustable ones with the "clicks" that will freeze up unless you clean them and I am not cleaning gas blocks period.
Greg
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Post by zr600 on Aug 7, 2016 19:56:06 GMT -8
I checked the size of my gas block it's 1.65 and the inside of my handguard is 1.785 so is that not a low profile gas block and what should I get? Do I need a adjustable or would a none adjustable one be fine? I will be running a surpressor when my paper work gets approved.
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Aug 8, 2016 9:19:57 GMT -8
I checked the size of my gas block it's 1.65 and the inside of my handguard is 1.785 so is that not a low profile gas block and what should I get? Do I need a adjustable or would a none adjustable one be fine? I will be running a surpressor when my paper work gets approved. You definitely want an adjustable with a can. BTE sells them that will be fine for you as long as you can acess the screw from the side. A ventilated HG is what I use if I must cover the block. My LP BTE adjustable MICRO measures 1.423. Greg |
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