Post by GLSHOOTER on Aug 7, 2016 10:44:46 GMT -8
Just an intro to how I make brass for the 22X6.8. This will work for all of the 6.8 variants stopping at the proper place. This is the same process I use on all the LBC's from 6.5 down to 20 with adjustments for head spacing and, of course, a different die.
I use mostly Wilson bushings as they have bit more chamfer leading into the sizer but Reddings are perfectly fine. I run mine NUMBERS UP.
If using new brass set the die up to not move the shoulders doing your neck down and once shot you can adjust for the chamber size. Other than using new first set the die up to size a 6.8 to nominal shoulder height if using fired cases. My FC once fired measures 1.357 with a Hornady rig and a 350 insert. If you don't have one just make up the tool with a 9 MM case and set your die to bump back and size the case 0.007 with them or to about 1.350 at the datum line using the Hornady tool. Do that with a standard bushing size 299 or you can even do it without a bushing. The die will bump the shoulder and size it down but I like the 299 just to square things up and get it going. Be sure and CHAMFER the outside of the cases!! I do both at this step as it will be needed later. FLOAT the bushing by backing it off from tight by about 1/16 turn. That helps as the mouth enters the case. These bushings actually never go all the way down to the shoulder/neck junction but not to worrry.
At this point your die is set. It probably will not be touching the shell holder or if so very lightly. Lock that puppy down.
Now swap to a next size bushing like a 287. Make sure you float it about 1/16. Now a 279-280 followed by a 269 or so. The jump from 269 to the final 251 is doable but I prefer to do an intermediate step. of 260. I know it seems like a lot of work but it goes fast.
Now the secret. I run the ram up to touch the mouth agaisnt the bushing and then stop. I then "pop" it up into the bushing as opposed to just making a stroke from beginning to end. Be sure and lube the cse necks when you form. It is so much easier.
Incrementally you can make jumps of 0.020 but the slower method keeps the necks a bit more square and brass seems to be less inconsistent in thickeness which is always a good thing.
Now you have pulled the expander button right after the first sizing as a 6.8? Now the trick here is you can go two ways. Swap out the decapping 6.8 size rod and the pin holder with a 223 rod/expander assembly that does not expand the necks or take the rod all the way off and drop that round black button ON TOP of the bushing and screw in the top bolt to hold everything in place. I decap prior to cleaning with a Universal Decapper so I don't worry about it.
One thing I also do as I get down to the last two steps I float the bushing maybe an extra 1/16 turn so it would be a total of 1/8. Don't worry the cases will enter your chamber easily. You need to check that they do fit as you might have to do a bit more shoulder bump say to 1.348 for your set up but 1.350 works for all my 6.8 variants.
That ought to get you going. I don't trim after the process as they are never too long. After firing I just run them through the die that I have not moved and the 251-250 bushing. The FC brass I use tends to vary in thickness and one would be well served to go 250-249 on all of it if you are seeing a lot of variance in your brass. Different brands /lots may need adjustment.
I do not neck turn and get excellent accuracy although if one is going for every bit of performance on group size it would not be inadvisable to clean up any neck thickness variation. Additionally I have not annealed any cases prior too or while making the brass. Doing it at the end of the process would help normalize your neck tensions. I have not lost a single case to the process and after shooting. This was designed as a colony gun and coyote whacker and even ignoring those two "vital" steps, according to some, it will put a smile on your face.
The 22X6.8 can be loaded sanely and is very fast and even with the soft FC stuff you will see a minimum of five loadings (six since I use once fired) without issue. In the 6X6,8 using OLD SSA I have over a dozen firings on my brass and it is still going strong. Just because you can make it go like light speed on velocities doesn't mean you should.
Let me know how it goes.
Greg
I use mostly Wilson bushings as they have bit more chamfer leading into the sizer but Reddings are perfectly fine. I run mine NUMBERS UP.
If using new brass set the die up to not move the shoulders doing your neck down and once shot you can adjust for the chamber size. Other than using new first set the die up to size a 6.8 to nominal shoulder height if using fired cases. My FC once fired measures 1.357 with a Hornady rig and a 350 insert. If you don't have one just make up the tool with a 9 MM case and set your die to bump back and size the case 0.007 with them or to about 1.350 at the datum line using the Hornady tool. Do that with a standard bushing size 299 or you can even do it without a bushing. The die will bump the shoulder and size it down but I like the 299 just to square things up and get it going. Be sure and CHAMFER the outside of the cases!! I do both at this step as it will be needed later. FLOAT the bushing by backing it off from tight by about 1/16 turn. That helps as the mouth enters the case. These bushings actually never go all the way down to the shoulder/neck junction but not to worrry.
At this point your die is set. It probably will not be touching the shell holder or if so very lightly. Lock that puppy down.
Now swap to a next size bushing like a 287. Make sure you float it about 1/16. Now a 279-280 followed by a 269 or so. The jump from 269 to the final 251 is doable but I prefer to do an intermediate step. of 260. I know it seems like a lot of work but it goes fast.
Now the secret. I run the ram up to touch the mouth agaisnt the bushing and then stop. I then "pop" it up into the bushing as opposed to just making a stroke from beginning to end. Be sure and lube the cse necks when you form. It is so much easier.
Incrementally you can make jumps of 0.020 but the slower method keeps the necks a bit more square and brass seems to be less inconsistent in thickeness which is always a good thing.
Now you have pulled the expander button right after the first sizing as a 6.8? Now the trick here is you can go two ways. Swap out the decapping 6.8 size rod and the pin holder with a 223 rod/expander assembly that does not expand the necks or take the rod all the way off and drop that round black button ON TOP of the bushing and screw in the top bolt to hold everything in place. I decap prior to cleaning with a Universal Decapper so I don't worry about it.
One thing I also do as I get down to the last two steps I float the bushing maybe an extra 1/16 turn so it would be a total of 1/8. Don't worry the cases will enter your chamber easily. You need to check that they do fit as you might have to do a bit more shoulder bump say to 1.348 for your set up but 1.350 works for all my 6.8 variants.
That ought to get you going. I don't trim after the process as they are never too long. After firing I just run them through the die that I have not moved and the 251-250 bushing. The FC brass I use tends to vary in thickness and one would be well served to go 250-249 on all of it if you are seeing a lot of variance in your brass. Different brands /lots may need adjustment.
I do not neck turn and get excellent accuracy although if one is going for every bit of performance on group size it would not be inadvisable to clean up any neck thickness variation. Additionally I have not annealed any cases prior too or while making the brass. Doing it at the end of the process would help normalize your neck tensions. I have not lost a single case to the process and after shooting. This was designed as a colony gun and coyote whacker and even ignoring those two "vital" steps, according to some, it will put a smile on your face.
The 22X6.8 can be loaded sanely and is very fast and even with the soft FC stuff you will see a minimum of five loadings (six since I use once fired) without issue. In the 6X6,8 using OLD SSA I have over a dozen firings on my brass and it is still going strong. Just because you can make it go like light speed on velocities doesn't mean you should.
Let me know how it goes.
Greg