koden
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Post by koden on Jan 3, 2012 20:46:44 GMT -8
I got the gas block off. It was a very nice tight fit. Took a hammer and a block of wood to remove. No carbon fouling at all between the block and barrel. All the gas is leaking out from the gas tube hole. The gas tube rocks back and forth (lots of play) in the block. I don't think that would be normal? It should be a fairly tight fit should it not?
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koden
Junior Member
Posts: 30
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Post by koden on Jan 3, 2012 20:49:49 GMT -8
Also regarding the brake what do you have there. Cant remember the name. It's a flash hider, no brake. I'll probably get a WCI brake once I get the gas system worked out.
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Post by sandsock on Jan 3, 2012 21:16:36 GMT -8
It sounds like the gas tube roll pin has sheared? I have seen where it was not fully anchored on both sides of the gas block and allowed the gas tube to loosen. I recommend installing them with roll pin punches from Brownells and making sure they have lots of meat on each side of the gas tube pin hole. The gas tube shouldn't move at all once installed. Hopefully a new pin will solve your problem.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 3, 2012 21:29:04 GMT -8
Don't worry for now then. The worse are some muzzle brakes that claim miracles but by design they interfere with the bullet. Flash hider is what it is for but it is not that you are going to need it a lot brake with a long heavy barrel anchoring you so the hider might be ok if the recoils is ok for you.
sandsock brings up a good point. We assume the tube is well installed right? Nevertherless I have seen gas blocks out of spec or tubes for whatever reason lots of loose fit. You need a snug fit. It should enter easily but with a snug and no play on it.
Again one drop of gasket sealant might be all you need. It comes off easily but it holds high temps very well. You wouldn't even see it since it should be like as thin as a coat of varnish. just at the exit of the tube of wherever you see a leak.
Again, this will not stain or stick. But if not sure do not do it. I have my own shop where I can do anything I want and I understand some things are not for everyone. so use your wisdom and please give me a shout as I am here from time to time and happy to help a fellow forum member.
Cheers. E.
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koden
Junior Member
Posts: 30
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Post by koden on Jan 4, 2012 13:53:56 GMT -8
It sounds like the gas tube roll pin has sheared? The pin was fine, punched it out and it was a tight fit in the block and it was almost flush with both sides of the block. I suspect the gas tube is out of spec. I am picking up a vice clamp for the barrel (or I'll make one out of wood) so I can get the block off and take it in and get a tight fitting tube for it (or I will replace the GB if all tubes fit loose). Thanks for the help everyone.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2012 16:07:02 GMT -8
That looks like the way to go. You do not have a clamp on option with that rail+barrel section combination. Again, one drop of gasket sealant is all might take to cure the issue.
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koden
Junior Member
Posts: 30
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Post by koden on Jan 4, 2012 19:00:26 GMT -8
I would think that automotive RTV (Gold or Red) would not hold up to the pressure that the gas block sees. Would it not just blow out?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2012 20:02:42 GMT -8
If the system cycles well and the bleeding is not too much then eventually might go to less with the fouling itself. But if the smoke bothers you there is nothing to loose with trying.
You will not even be able to see it. it would be so spread-ed that would be like a coat of transparent paint. One tiny drop will leave left over. The key is to use the one with the highest temp. rating and let it dry. the silicon black type cleans really well. I use it to create a seal in the charging handles too. I know this one is easy to clean. I am not sure about others.
This is what I would do. - Remove the gas block and tube. - Clean everything really well. I mean shiny well. and spray with solvent so there is no residue, dust or oils left. - with a cotton swab put some in the open end of the block inside In the front. Just a tiny bit. - Insert the tube and get ready with the pin. -Before you insert the tube all the way and past the bleeding hole then in the last 1/8 of an inch or so self pass the swab again all around the tube so it will seal there. -Finish pushing the tube in place and pin it. With the clean part of the swab clean any excess although there shouldn't be any if you applied as I told you. -Slide the gas block back slowly. just pass the swab around the bleeding port before you slide all the way and make sure you make a U around the port so when it slides any excess doesn't get shoved into the port. Align everything and set the screws with red locktite. Let it cure for a couple of days or as described from the manufacturer. If one day you remove the screw you will have to scrub the residue or then look for another new one. It depends on how dirty your powder is you will have so many rounds. Might not have to ever touch it again. Then go and tune those loads for accuracy. let me know if you need help with that. By the way, what 6.5 are you shooting? Thanks.
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koden
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Posts: 30
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Post by koden on Jan 4, 2012 20:35:57 GMT -8
I measure the gas tube and gas block with my calipers:
Tube: 0.179" Block: 0.1865"
Do you (or anyone) have them laying around and can measure? I'm just curious to see how mine compares to other manufacturers.
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koden
Junior Member
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Post by koden on Jan 4, 2012 20:38:09 GMT -8
Oh, yes, it is a 264LBC. Should be a tack driver when its all said and done.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2012 21:20:09 GMT -8
I did measure the Vltor that fits like a glove and it is dead on. The gas tube is 0.1795. The block is 0.1825.
I think your block is out of spec. too much difference in yours. Talk to the manufacturer and see what they say.
What are you going to do with the LBC and the long barrel?
I hope this helps.
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koden
Junior Member
Posts: 30
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Post by koden on Jan 4, 2012 21:51:49 GMT -8
Thanks for the numbers. I have emailed Troy about the block. We'll see what they say.
I am not a hunter, I just shoot for fun. I have a range close to me that has 600 yards and one a little further that has 1K. I hope to get proficient at long range shooting and maybe do some competitions but we'll see how good I can shoot. I am very new to rifles so we'll see.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2012 18:19:37 GMT -8
Good. Keep us posted on the block. Get a good chrono and a kestrel. I am very happy with the ammomaster from RCBS. It is the most accurate I had and was not expensive.
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koden
Junior Member
Posts: 30
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Post by koden on Jan 6, 2012 10:04:35 GMT -8
I contacted Troy and I have to ship them the gas block for inspection (waiting for them to email me a call tag). Thew will repair or replace if they find it out of spec.
No shooting for me this weekend. The only local ones I can find are Troy and I am not buying another one from them.
I have an RCBS chrono. It's the one shaped like a big bullet when everything is stored. Seems to work fine. The storage door likes to pop off whenever it wants but that's my only gripe.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2012 14:55:07 GMT -8
Good. the gas block is not good. They should replace it. yes! that with the bullet shape is the ammo-master. Very accurate yet not too expensive. Once you run the spreads let me know if you need with the charts. Try the 123 scenars.
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