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Post by GLSHOOTER on Jan 22, 2013 15:33:36 GMT -8
What about Target crown vs threaded barrel. I am looking at prob an 18 bull for coyote, prairie dog and fun shooting but I am still working out the finer details. I would go a minimum of 20 and probably 22 if I want to reach out for PD's. Velocity is king and flatter trajectories rule. An 18" tube will rob you of both IMHO. I love 24" bull barrels but the BHW standard I'm shooting at 500 gives up nothing to my heavier ones in 24". The accuracy is stellar no matter how much steel you wrap around that bore. Greg PS: Don't thread. You might as well get the extra barrel if you are going to be pointing that long a tube anyway. |
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Post by minnesotamulisha on Jan 29, 2013 6:25:48 GMT -8
Brandon, you said that unless you are going to suppress or hunt at night, do not thread. Please forgive my ignorance, but why would hunting at night matter whether or not the barrel would be threaded?
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Jan 29, 2013 8:47:01 GMT -8
Brandon, you said that unless you are going to suppress or hunt at night, do not thread. Please forgive my ignorance, but why would hunting at night matter whether or not the barrel would be threaded? The theory is that a flash hider will cut down on the amount of night blindness you get when shooting. Of course the practice vs the theory is that it makes little difference IMHO. Greg |
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Post by minnesotamulisha on Jan 29, 2013 13:07:12 GMT -8
Thanks for the explanation. I've already ordered my BHW barrel, but I ordered one that is threaded. This is probably quite a stretch, but iss there a type of muzzle brake that doesn't affect accuracy? Or would having the threads machined off of the barrel be the only way to maintain the accuracy?
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Jan 29, 2013 13:15:19 GMT -8
Thanks for the explanation. I've already ordered my BHW barrel, but I ordered one that is threaded. This is probably quite a stretch, but iss there a type of muzzle brake that doesn't affect accuracy? Or would having the threads machined off of the barrel be the only way to maintain the accuracy? The brakes are pretty inconsequential in a hunting rifle for accuracy. Unless you can shoot like Ritch you will never notice the difference. It is just a nice thing to pick up velocity for virtually no expense other than a few ounces of weight. I have shot standard flash hiders from the military, Miculek comps, DTAs and customs and I am still able to get sub-MOA groups so I would not let it bother me. If it's threaded go with it. Trust me a BHW barrel with threads and a brake/FH will not let you down in the bug hole quest. Greg |
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Post by Babaganoush on Jan 29, 2013 15:49:17 GMT -8
+1 on Greg's post.
My .308 has a DPMS Miculek brake on it, and it throws 5 in a hole @ 100 yards with boring regularity. I have it principally for maintaining sight pictures at longer distances (700 - 1000 yards).
A good barrel, with a compatible load will ignore the presence of the brake. Just be sure to work your up load for the final configuration.
David
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Post by minnesotamulisha on Jan 30, 2013 15:51:54 GMT -8
Babaganoush, I see that you and GLShooter both mentioned Miculek muzzle brakes. Is this because they have the least effect on accuracy or is there another reason?
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Jan 30, 2013 20:44:18 GMT -8
Babaganoush, I see that you and GLShooter both mentioned Miculek muzzle brakes. Is this because they have the least effect on accuracy or is there another reason? Because the work as a brake. The accuracy is not changed with them as far as I can tell. I use them for shooting PDQ. Greg |
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Post by Babaganoush on Jan 31, 2013 10:26:57 GMT -8
Babaganoush, I see that you and GLShooter both mentioned Miculek muzzle brakes. Is this because they have the least effect on accuracy or is there another reason? I doubt there is a whisker's worth of difference between brakes, as far as accuracy is concerned. In my opinion, the selection criteria revolves around recoil reduction and appearance, in most cases. I use the Miculek because it: a) Works well for what it is intended. b) Is reasonably priced. c) Was rated in a comparison test as reducing recoil just about as effectively as any of the top dollar brakes in the same test. (Some of the other brakes were 4-5 times the cost). I have one on both my .308 and 5.56. I also use a Dragon's Head forward comp on my BHW .264 lbc, but this was chosen to be more friendly to my shooting buddies when we're out p'dogging (as opposed to the gill style brakes, which increase the sound level at the sides). This rifle is also a shooter, and the compensator keeps the muzzle from jumping around as much. I hope this helps. David |
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Post by m4weave on Jan 31, 2013 14:22:07 GMT -8
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Post by Babaganoush on Jan 31, 2013 15:19:24 GMT -8
Mike! you da man! The review I alluded to ("A Question of Compensation") is the one your link builds upon. I find the author's use of a laser pointer to illustrate the post shot movement quite interesting, but since the shots were taken off-hand, it becomes a case of YMMV, as far as shot recovery is concerned. If you follow the link to his previous article, you will see that he had relied solely upon paper graphs drawn by the his rig's motion. While somewhat crude, the method went far to remove the human equation. I would like to see him revisit the test, but somehow using a rig which would allow for X and Y axis motion, thus keeping the man out of the loop. (How hard can it be?  ) Predictably, his findings on recoil reduction still place the Miculek at the top. David |
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Post by minnesotamulisha on Jan 31, 2013 15:29:36 GMT -8
M4WEAVE, that is great article. Thanks for the link!
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Post by m4weave on Jan 31, 2013 18:51:23 GMT -8
Glad I could help! I would like to see him revisit the test, but somehow using a rig which would allow for X and Y axis motion, thus keeping the man out of the loop. (How hard can it be? ) Agreed. THAT would be the best of both worlds. Actually, I can think of a way to perhaps accomplish that movement. If one were to use a velcro strap near the forend, you could then attach 4 springs in an 'X' [if viewed from the end of the AR] with just enough tension to hold the AR in place. Upon the shot, movement of the AR could take place, but the rifle should come back to center. To be consistent, one should use 4 springs of the same size and adjust the tension on all so the lengths were the same prior to each shot. I'm not sure it would earn a Nobel in Science, but might provide useful results.  If I only had the time and a bunch of comps, THAT would be a fun test to run!  -Mike |
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Post by Babaganoush on Feb 1, 2013 20:53:08 GMT -8
If I only had the time and a bunch of comps, THAT would be a fun test to run! Roger that on the Fun! (Now what did I do with that spare 5 days and $1,500?) |
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