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Post by hogwild on May 29, 2013 20:51:36 GMT -8
BHW suggested break in procedure is:
5 rounds of copper jacket bullets, clean with non-copper removing solvent, clean with patch, repeat process for a total of 60 rounds. Shoot a good quality copper jacket bullet.
Most barrel break in procedures call for both powder and copper removal. I assume leaving the copper relates in some way to the polygonal rifling. I am interested in why copper removal is not suggested for break in and after 60 rounds what is the correct cleaning approach.
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Post by GLSHOOTER on May 30, 2013 13:35:44 GMT -8
BHW suggested break in procedure is: 5 rounds of copper jacket bullets, clean with non-copper removing solvent, clean with patch, repeat process for a total of 60 rounds. Shoot a good quality copper jacket bullet. Most barrel break in procedures call for both powder and copper removal. I assume leaving the copper relates in some way to the polygonal rifling. I am interested in why copper removal is not suggested for break in and after 60 rounds what is the correct cleaning approach. Carl recommends the non-copper stuff. The funny thing is after 100+ rounds you will be lucky to even find copper no matter how hard you look. I believe he thinks there is a benefit to the copper being left in place. I clean 'em every 60 rounds when I shoot them. I use Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner. Using Sweets after 150+ rounds I got a tiny trace out of my 6X68. Clean as you desire but the BHW's are so smooth it is almost an exercise in frustration. Thats one reason they shoot faster than a regular rifled barrel. One thing that is of importance, IMHO, is that the small sub-calibers like 17 and 20 need to be cleaned a bit more often, at least the 17, as a tiny build up of junk in a 17 is much more proportionally an issue than the same thickness in a 264. My 20 LBC seems to run a long time but I have not shot my 20 Practical enough to say how much it is impacted by multiple bullets with little cleaning along the way. Also when I get a new barrel I run a patch through the bore and wipe out any loose stuff. The barrels have a wax in them and there is no need to remove it. If I get a bit of metal down from the gas port the patch will usually take it out. If I still have a tiny piece left a bullet down the tube will take it out and I have yet to see a negative impact on it. I have taken a few BHW barrels and not broken them in. Just swipe ed it down and shot 50 rounds. Still no copper and still sub-0.5 MOA performance. My break in is different than the one here but I don't seem to see the end results being different. They all shoot good in spite of my rebel approach. Greg |
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Post by lkrbuilder13 on Jul 20, 2013 20:58:14 GMT -8
BHW suggested break in procedure is: 5 rounds of copper jacket bullets, clean with non-copper removing solvent, clean with patch, repeat process for a total of 60 rounds. Shoot a good quality copper jacket bullet. Most barrel break in procedures call for both powder and copper removal. I assume leaving the copper relates in some way to the polygonal rifling. I am interested in why copper removal is not suggested for break in and after 60 rounds what is the correct cleaning approach. Carl recommends the non-copper stuff. The funny thing is after 100+ rounds you will be lucky to even find copper no matter how hard you look. I believe he thinks there is a benefit to the copper being left in place. I clean 'em every 60 rounds when I shoot them. I use Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner. Using Sweets after 150+ rounds I got a tiny trace out of my 6X68. Clean as you desire but the BHW's are so smooth it is almost an exercise in frustration. Thats one reason they shoot faster than a regular rifled barrel. One thing that is of importance, IMHO, is that the small sub-calibers like 17 and 20 need to be cleaned a bit more often, at least the 17, as a tiny build up of junk in a 17 is much more proportionally an issue than the same thickness in a 264. My 20 LBC seems to run a long time but I have not shot my 20 Practical enough to say how much it is impacted by multiple bullets with little cleaning along the way. Also when I get a new barrel I run a patch through the bore and wipe out any loose stuff. The barrels have a wax in them and there is no need to remove it. If I get a bit of metal down from the gas port the patch will usually take it out. If I still have a tiny piece left a bullet down the tube will take it out and I have yet to see a negative impact on it. I have taken a few BHW barrels and not broken them in. Just swipe ed it down and shot 50 rounds. Still no copper and still sub-0.5 MOA performance. My break in is different than the one here but I don't seem to see the end results being different. They all shoot good in spite of my rebel approach. Greg Do you see any advantage to using Butches bore polishing compound? I have used it on some standard rifle barrels and have noticed a difference. I just didn't know if it is a waste of time on this style barrel. Thanks Brian |
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Jul 20, 2013 21:07:00 GMT -8
No need to use Butch's on these. The smoothness is like nothing I have ever seen in a rifle barrel. It is almost impossible to find any copper fouling present with a reasonable number of shots down the bore. Say 150 or so. Look all you want and you juts won't find it. I've used JB Bore Paste on other barrels and had stellar results but you can't take out what isn't there. Truly one of those things where a quick patch down the bore to start and jump right in. I'm just not seeing the need for my traditional break in like I do on Enfield type barrels.
Greg
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