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Post by abbyfivefivesix on Jun 28, 2015 8:18:35 GMT -8
50 yard zero, Meprolight red dot and 55gr PMC.  So far I've put maybe 120 rounds through my new 5.56 barrel. And so far I've only cleaned it with patches and Ed's red cleaner using a bore guide and jag. No copper solvents so far. At what point do I need to employ brushes and copper solvents and how often? When to use bronze/brass brushes vs nylon? Love my BHW barrel and want to give it proper tlc! Thanks! Also, is Gunslick foaming bore cleaner a good product to use with these barrels? I have an adjustable gas block and always close the gas gas system before cleaning so nothing goes in the tube and to keep the screw working. |
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Post by abbyfivefivesix on Jun 28, 2015 9:14:03 GMT -8
Actually on edit, after reviewing my history, I've put about 200 pills through this barrel already, so I'm sure it's time I learn to clean it better. What's the proper technique and how often to brush and remove copper? Thanks.
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Post by wfa on Jun 28, 2015 10:29:35 GMT -8
One thing I've found, and not with just BHW barrels, is "less is better". I've "pushed" my BHW barrels a little beyond your round count, but I'm not "recommending" it. Every stainless barrel I've ever owned didn't shoot as good "clean" as it did dirty, and after cleaning required a "few" (as many as 60(!) in the case of a Tikka 30-06 bolt gun I used to own) rounds to start shooting the way it did prior to cleaning. These days I don't clean them until accuracy has clearly "gone south".
When I do clean I just use a dry bristle (not bronze) brush (a little Hoppes sometimes), and then dry patches. That seems to decrease the number of rounds necessary to get it back to "normal", but restores accuracy.
There are lots of opinions about this subject; this is mine.
Walt
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Jun 28, 2015 11:04:02 GMT -8
Generally the latest you wait is when you see groups getting bigger. My cleaning steps are usually done at around 200 rounds. I squirt Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner in and do two rotations with nothing but patches. It seems to remove all of the fouling and copper. I've not had my barrels require much to get zero back. Maybe three shots if that at all. I have followed up with Sweets looking for copper and it just is not there. The only one I have needed more treatment on was a 17-223 and those just get nasty fast.
If I use regular Shooters Choice or Butches Bore Shine I use brushes and patches. For the aggressive copper solvents I do use nylon brushes. I also use jags that are not brass so there is no leaching. Be sure and spray any bristle/bronze stuff down with brake cleaner of you do use them. Much cheaper than Gun Scrubber.
I don't close my GB off but I do squirt non-chlorinated brake cleaner down the tube. DO NOT use pipe cleaners!!!!! Do turn the screw off and on and keep it loose. RTV works to help me in that area a great deal. Leave the LockTite on the shelf.
Greg
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Post by US_MECHANIX on Sept 29, 2015 16:51:38 GMT -8
I'm going to ask a silly question but in breaking in the barrel it recommends using a non copper scrubbing solvent. Would anyone happen to have any recommendations? Obviously the rifling design doesn't lend itself to ripping the jackets off of rounds anyhow so it doesn't seem to be as big an issue as in other designs. I just want to make sure I do right! Thanks for all the help.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 29, 2015 16:59:14 GMT -8
I'm going to ask a silly question but in breaking in the barrel it recommends using a non copper scrubbing solvent. Would anyone happen to have any recommendations? Obviously the rifling design doesn't lend itself to ripping the jackets off of rounds anyhow so it doesn't seem to be as big an issue as in other designs. I just want to make sure I do right! Thanks for all the help. I have had good luck with Kroil oil if I am just trying to remove powder fouling and leave the copper. |
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Post by US_MECHANIX on Sept 29, 2015 17:32:21 GMT -8
Sweet I will steal a can from work
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