lerms
Senior Member
Posts: 113
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Post by lerms on Nov 21, 2015 13:14:58 GMT -8
Below is what I did with my 264lbc BHW barrel I got a few months back. SD-E trigger, dragon head muzzle brake, adjustable gas block....... I got it to the range today and ran into problems, first was getting to to feed a round once that was fixed I had to get the gas block set. Those are not my biggest concerns. I shot 40 rounds of hornady 123gr sst and about 15 have blown primers and all have flat primers and bad extractor marks on them. I'm sure I can file the extractor and fix that problem but I'm not sure why I'm getting really bad pressure signs on the brass. Also I'm not sure what I did with my bolt disassembly tool... anyone got a neat trick to get it apart with ease? Lerms
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Post by devildogandboy on Nov 21, 2015 13:38:28 GMT -8
those extractor marks look like the ones i was getting when i tried my 6.8 extractor in my 6.5 grndel. if that is the correct extractor you can polish that out no problem. also check and see if you have the o=ring installed, you might remove that.
Bruce
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Nov 24, 2015 10:35:54 GMT -8
ll take a guess. One the factory ammo is too hot or is getting punched by a sharp firing pin. Perhaps one that has been eroded from previous primer failures. The chamber looks good and I am thinking over gassing causing the ripped rims. Certainly not barrel related with what I'm seeing here. Another brand of ammo might be worth a try or some handloads with a 450 or 7 1/2 primer.
Just my thoughts.
Greg
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lerms
Senior Member
Posts: 113
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Post by lerms on Nov 26, 2015 6:20:19 GMT -8
ll take a guess. One the factory ammo is too hot or is getting punched by a sharp firing pin. Perhaps one that has been eroded from previous primer failures. The chamber looks good and I am thinking over gassing causing the ripped rims. Certainly not barrel related with what I'm seeing here. Another brand of ammo might be worth a try or some handloads with a 450 or 7 1/2 primer. Just my thoughts. Greg I believe the factory ammo is to hot, the firing pin looks good and is new. I have the gas block set to were it just cycles the rounds one click down and it won't hold the bolt open on a empty mag. Even when I turned the gas off the extractor was scaring the hell out of the brass, I think it just needs the edges filed off the extractor. Pretty sure all the broken and flat primers means the brass is trashed and no good for reloading, I'll buy some other ammo and try some reloads. On my way to blind pin and weld my BHW 300blk barrel, file that extractor while I'm in the shop. Hope to get to the range this weekend and I'll report back. Lerms Happy Thanksgiving
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Post by bobatl on Nov 26, 2015 6:36:42 GMT -8
One more minor detail, while you are working on the bolt/extractor. The bolt face flat ridge where the empty pivots outward, that edge could be razor sharp. As a matter of habit, I round that edge to eliminate it from ejector/rim marks. You are probably already aware of it..... Happy Thanksgiving 2U and your family...
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lerms
Senior Member
Posts: 113
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Post by lerms on Nov 28, 2015 5:11:21 GMT -8
So while in the shop on turkey day I had the extractor in hand and realized I have not a clue where I was going to file this thing other then the sharp corners. Anyone got pics of were you had to file one or maybe all the turkey and beer for the last two days has made me stupid for the moment. However I did get somethings done. 300 blackout Lerms
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Nov 28, 2015 5:55:33 GMT -8
I just gently round the outside corners. Taking the sharp ends off the horns helps a huge amount. I know there are some pictures I have seen but can't find them. I'll look around some today. Aso very gently round the leading extractor edge that contacts the case on the ends/horns also. I want it to grip more with the center section across the wider area without getting a sharp edge/end digging in.
Greg
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Post by bobatl on Nov 28, 2015 10:51:11 GMT -8
Lifted these from www, 2nd shows the ridge to round off. I use fine/very fine emory-cloth, think a file might be to much.
and..
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lerms
Senior Member
Posts: 113
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Post by lerms on Nov 28, 2015 12:08:33 GMT -8
I have smal jewelry files that should get the job done right. Thanks for the pictures bobatl.
lerms
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Post by mosigdude on Nov 28, 2015 21:36:39 GMT -8
I do all of my extractors as in pic #1 and have had great results. I have never done, seen or heard of rounding the edge in pic #2, any idea on the theory behind it or what problem it remedies? Intriegued!
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Nov 29, 2015 7:02:34 GMT -8
I do all of my extractors as in pic #1 and have had great results. I have never done, seen or heard of rounding the edge in pic #2, any idea on the theory behind it or what problem it remedies? Intriegued! I have no idea. Greg
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Post by bobatl on Nov 29, 2015 11:51:23 GMT -8
.... rounding the edge in pic #2, any idea on the theory behind it or what problem it remedies? Intriegued! The idea is that spent brass rotates outward on that ridge, like a fulcrum point. Brass is supposed to clear it without snagging or digging in. Only if it is very sharp, could there be a problem. I had one that was left machined sharp and my rounding of it was one of a couple efforts that solved a problem. Can't say it was "the fix", cause didn't do stuff one-at-time. Not my idea, found it while searching www on the problem topic...
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Nov 29, 2015 12:45:49 GMT -8
.... rounding the edge in pic #2, any idea on the theory behind it or what problem it remedies? Intriegued! The idea is that spent brass rotates outward on that ridge, like a fulcrum point. Brass is supposed to clear it without snagging or digging in. Only if it is very sharp, could there be a problem. I had one that was left machined sharp and my rounding of it was one of a couple efforts that solved a problem. Can't say it was "the fix", cause didn't do stuff one-at-time. Not my idea, found it while searching www on the problem topic...
That's interesting. I can't quite wrap my spatial relations head around it because the rim doesn't hang over much to rotate on. We all do a shotgun approach to issues and rarely make one change and go back to the range for a test. Also we rarely get more than one or two problem bolts to fix. I'm sure some of what we do helps but others get mixed in with the voodoo of the fixing and really add little if anything. Greg
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 29, 2015 14:29:19 GMT -8
.... rounding the edge in pic #2, any idea on the theory behind it or what problem it remedies? Intriegued! The idea is that spent brass rotates outward on that ridge, like a fulcrum point. Brass is supposed to clear it without snagging or digging in. Only if it is very sharp, could there be a problem. I had one that was left machined sharp and my rounding of it was one of a couple efforts that solved a problem. Can't say it was "the fix", cause didn't do stuff one-at-time. Not my idea, found it while searching www on the problem topic...
It won't hurt anything, but removing any material from the bolt as in picture #2 is a worthless endeavor. It's not a fulcrum point if your extractor is in spec. IF your extractor is correct it will have an opening that measures .080. The rim thickness of a Grendel case is .050 leaving .030 tolerance, or put another way, .030 of unobstructed play. The bolt rotates and pulls straight back. The ejector keeps tension against the bottom of the case head on the off side. The only point of contact is the extractor claw on the top of the rim in the extractor groove.
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Post by campguy308 on Dec 1, 2015 17:35:24 GMT -8
I am curious what your distance to the lands is with that factory Hornady load. The throat was cut too short in one of mine causing the factory Hornady load to be jammed into the lands significantly. If that's the case, it could be raising the pressure. BHW fixed mine for me. Just a thought.
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