Post by GLSHOOTER on Feb 6, 2016 8:53:05 GMT -8
First set the die up to size a 6.8 to nominal shoulder height. My FC once fired measures 1.357 with a Hornady rig and a 350 insert. If you don't have one just make up the tool with a 9 MM case and set your die to bump back and size the case 0.007 with them or to 1.350 at the datum line using the Hornady tool. . Do that with a standard size 299 or you can even do it without a bushing. The die will size it down but I like the 299 just to square things up and get it going. Be sure and CHAMFER the outside of the cases!! I do both at this step as it will be needed later. FLOAT the bushing by backing it off from tight by about 1/16 turn. That helps as the mouth enters the case. These bushings actually never go all the way down to the shoulder/neck junction but not to worry.
At this point your die is set. It probably will not be touching the shell holder or if so very lightly. Lock that puppy down.
Now you have pulled the expander button right after the first sizing as a 6.8? Now the trick here is you can go two ways. Swap out the decapping 6.8 size rod and the pin holder with a 223 rod/expanderr that does not expand the necks or take the rod all the way off and drop that round black button ON TOP of the bushing and screw in the top bolt to hold everything in place. I decap prior to cleaning with a Universal Decapper so I don't worry about it.
Now the secret. I run the ram up to touch the mouth against the bushing and then stop. I then "pop" it up into the bushing as opposed to just making a stroke from beginning to end. Be sure and lube the case necks when you form. It is so much easier. I use WILSON bushings because of the chamfer that aids in starting the case mouths.
Now swap to a next size bushing like a 287. Make sure you float it about 1/16. Now a 279-280 followed by a 269 or so.
Incrementally you can make jumps of 0.020 but the slow method keeps the necks a bit more square and brass seems to show less uneven thickness side to side.
That ought to get you going. I don't trim after the process as they are never too long. After firing I just run them through the die that I have not moved and the 269 bushing. The FC brass tends to vary in thickness and one would be well served to go with that on all of it if you are seeing a lot of variance in your brass. SSA brass is thicker as is Hornady and a 270 is fine for those.
Greg
At this point your die is set. It probably will not be touching the shell holder or if so very lightly. Lock that puppy down.
Now you have pulled the expander button right after the first sizing as a 6.8? Now the trick here is you can go two ways. Swap out the decapping 6.8 size rod and the pin holder with a 223 rod/expanderr that does not expand the necks or take the rod all the way off and drop that round black button ON TOP of the bushing and screw in the top bolt to hold everything in place. I decap prior to cleaning with a Universal Decapper so I don't worry about it.
Now the secret. I run the ram up to touch the mouth against the bushing and then stop. I then "pop" it up into the bushing as opposed to just making a stroke from beginning to end. Be sure and lube the case necks when you form. It is so much easier. I use WILSON bushings because of the chamfer that aids in starting the case mouths.
Now swap to a next size bushing like a 287. Make sure you float it about 1/16. Now a 279-280 followed by a 269 or so.
Incrementally you can make jumps of 0.020 but the slow method keeps the necks a bit more square and brass seems to show less uneven thickness side to side.
That ought to get you going. I don't trim after the process as they are never too long. After firing I just run them through the die that I have not moved and the 269 bushing. The FC brass tends to vary in thickness and one would be well served to go with that on all of it if you are seeing a lot of variance in your brass. SSA brass is thicker as is Hornady and a 270 is fine for those.
Greg
