My AR pic, plus need some input from you guys

[grahamlindsay]

I'm new here and I only own one AR my first AR was a custom build attaching a couple pics. So basically I'm sort of an AR newbie, but i have lots and other guns and i reload (even have a wildcat that i reload successfully. A 6.5 JDJ g2 contender).

1: Since I'm an AR newbie can someone please tell me all the tools that I need to be able to replace the forend on this AR? From what I've read, if I'm understanding correctly; I would also have to probably redo the gas block to make sure it's properly set after removing It and putting another one on ? So I assume to do all that I need specific tools. I get kind of confused on the tools that you need for these things .

i693.photobucket.com/albums/vv295/lindsaygw/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-01/E5252083-EC0F-47B6-BB25-2F5A04DE15BC_zpsxydmfmwx.jpg.

I'm on my phone device and I wfont see where I can truly embed the image of this picture, so there's the URL for now.

My AR is fully broken in now and it's definitely a sub MOA shooter all day long and pushing half inch groups with my reloads ( still trying to get my perfect load but so far it's Varget and 55, 60 hotnady vmax.

I'm going to do one thing at a time so for now I just want to know how to get this forend off/on and what I need if I gotta mess with the gas block. I will have to look at my purchase spec on the gun to see if it's an adjustable gas block.

I've looked around, I have an idea I've seen things out there but I still get confused and I just prefer you guys tell me the best thing to get right off the bat.

[grahamlindsay]

[grahamlindsay]

[grahamlindsay]

I don't really see many people using atlas bipod's but I can tell you I love mine, and the nightforce scopes are great even though they're expensive. I want another AR except this time I'm gonna do it way different.

This is a 16" 1-8 twist wylde. 5.56 stamped, but i only do .223 in it. I want another but hoing to really think it out. Definately my next will be at least a 20"

Anyway, thanks for the looks and input.

[peabody]

If you're going to swap out hand guards, you will need to pull the gas block.  You can leave the gas tube in the block, unless you're going to switch to a low-profile block.

Basic tools you'll need, based on my experience, will be the following:

A block or jig of some sort to hold the upper receiver securely while removing/installing the barrel nut and gas block.  I recommend the following because it holds the upper receiver by the barrel extension, vs the receiver body.  This one block does pretty much everything you would do that requires the upper and lower receiver to be secure in a vice...

www.primaryarms.com/magpul-ar-15-bev-block-mag536


You'll need an armorer's wrench like this one (but I'm not recommending this specific product):

www.primaryarms.com/ncstar-ar15-m16-combo-wrench-tool-tarw

-You'll probably need a set of small punches (1/16"-1/8") and a brass or nylon hammer.  
-You might also need a set of allen/hex wrenches to remove the gas block if it isn't set with a roll pin.  
-If your existing handguard uses a special barrel nut, you'll likely need the mfg's special tool to remove it.
-You'll need a torque wrench that reads in pound-feet (lb/ft). I believe 30-60 lb/ft is the normal range on the AR barrel nut, with staying on the lower end of torque being recommended. However, there are some handguards that use shims to time  the alignment of the barrel nut, thus setting the torque without the need of a torque wrench.  ALG's (and Geissele) handguards work that way.  I have several ALGs and like their system and handguards very much.
-And you'll need a securely-mounted bench vice.
-And... a little grease of anti-seize for the barrel nut/receiver threads.

If you keep the existing gas block, you can use a standard level (2 ft should suffice) to align the top flat to the receiver flat.  If you have a roll pin in the block already, it should realign once the pin is set.  Also, measure the gap between the existing gas block and the barrel step.  You can use a standard set of automotive feeler gauges to do this, and to duplicate the spacing when you remount the block... unless you have a roll pin.  Then it should register to it's original position and alignment. 

[grahamlindsay]

^^Thank You Very Much! I have read and re-read many times, your response. It's starting to sink in...I will have to call Carl Emmite to ask about the gas block type(roll pin) and also the nut tool.  I have quite a bit of this stuff, but do indeed need a torque tool and a vice...I do also need some real smith hammers b/c I usually use rubber hammers that are not really smith hammers.  It sounds scary and like I may be doomed if I change and don't get it back right (biting my nails)....hmmmmm.

I'm not shy though!

Anybody else want to chime in

[peabody]

Happy to help! I forgot to note what a nice looking rifle you have.  It's a work of art. 

Have you chosen a replacement hand guard? That would help narrow down what's going to be involved with the installation.  

Also, I noticed after submitting my prior post that the top of your gas block is not on the same plane as the top of the upper receiver.  So using a level can work for realigning the planes.  But you'll need a spacer of some sort to bridge the gap between the level and the gas block, should you choose to use a level or straight edge to true it up.  If you don't plan to mount a front sight on the top of the gas block, then you can get away with "pretty close".  You only need the gas tube to align properly with the port in the upper receiver.  If the current block uses set screws and the barrel has been dimpled to match them, then you're good to go on getting everything to realign without any fancy, shade-tree engineering. But from your photos, it looks like a clamp-on type of gas block.

Out of curiosity, why do you want to change hand guards?

[grahamlindsay]

Thanks!

Honestly, I wanted to learn how to do it, but I think I am going to hold off...LOL. This thing shoots very well so my luck would be I introduce issues.


I wanted one that looked more like a varminter (IE: the round kind w/o any rails on it, but has a front end piece to hook in my bi-bod).

I wanted a longer one also

This one seems to be turning colors (haze light brownish) towards the back from handling it and I suppose gas (some of the blueing is wearing off as well).


Anyway, it's still good to understand this more and I may actually do a build.  Short answer is (I really don't need to replace it...I can surely live with it).

[peabody]

As they say, if it ain't broke... And it sounds like it's shooting very well.  If you don't like the look and/or feel of the quad rail, you could consider using some picatinny rail ladders to smooth out the area you grip like this (example):

www.primaryarms.com/magpul-picatinny-ladder-rail-panel-black-mag013blk

If you know the mfg of your current hand guard, it might be worth looking to see if they have longer units of the same design, or possibly another design altogether that works with your current barrel nut.  Swapping out the hand guard, less barrel nut, is much easier.  But you will need a low profile gas block for anything longer than what you're running now.  Low pro blocks aren't very expensive.  And you could always throw on a new gas tube with it to avoid transferring the one you're running now.  It's not difficult. And there are tons of how-to videos on YouTube for just about anything you can do to an AR-type rifle.  Food for thought...

Lastly, beware of building your own.  It's addictive.  Like Lay's potato chips, one is never enough...