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Post by cmdefo on Sept 16, 2011 7:14:08 GMT -8
I'm new to the forum, but a proud new owner of the 16" BHW Mid light barrel in Satin. I'm hoping someone can answer this question.
I live in the wonderful state of MA. This being said, I need to somehow attach a muzzle brake to my new barrel to make the politicians and LEO’s happy. I’ve never owned a stainless barrel and I’m looking for suggestions. My options are the following:
1. Pin and weld.
2. Weld 360 degrees or 4 small welds at 90 degrees.
3. Silver solder using 1100 degree silver solder.
I have experience and the equipment to do any of them. However, with the satin coating on the barrel, I want to try to avoid any discoloration from heating. I like prefer the silver solder method, but I’m unsure of the impact of heating the barrel to about 1200 degrees to allow the solder to flow.
Any suggestions/opinions or experience would be greatly appreciated!
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Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2011 14:58:54 GMT -8
I'm new to the forum, but a proud new owner of the 16" BHW Mid light barrel in Satin. I'm hoping someone can answer this question. I live in the wonderful state of MA. This being said, I need to somehow attach a muzzle brake to my new barrel to make the politicians and LEO’s happy. I’ve never owned a stainless barrel and I’m looking for suggestions. My options are the following: 1. Pin and weld. 2. Weld 360 degrees or 4 small welds at 90 degrees. 3. Silver solder using 1100 degree silver solder. I have experience and the equipment to do any of them. However, with the satin coating on the barrel, I want to try to avoid any discoloration from heating. I like prefer the silver solder method, but I’m unsure of the impact of heating the barrel to about 1200 degrees to allow the solder to flow. Any suggestions/opinions or experience would be greatly appreciated! Carl is asking if those are the only options that your LEO's are allowing you to do. Are there restrictions as to how you have to go about securing your muzzle break to your gone? From what I'm being told any of those methods could be potentially harmful to your barrel. "Brownell makes a cold silver solder that runs at 475º if you can use that. " |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 28, 2011 21:07:49 GMT -8
Just pin it with a small pin at the bottom minimally inside the barrel.
Also get a two piece gas block in case you need to do maintenance or custom order a brake with the same width of the barrel at the muzzle so you can do maintenance.
A break with wide side ports will allow you to clean it inside w/o any problems so stay away from exotic brakes with 1000 little holes that hurt more than help.
Use a light short brake to interfere the least possible with the original tune of the barrel.
Cheers.
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Sept 29, 2011 14:13:03 GMT -8
I'm new to the forum, but a proud new owner of the 16" BHW Mid light barrel in Satin. I'm hoping someone can answer this question. I live in the wonderful state of MA. This being said, I need to somehow attach a muzzle brake to my new barrel to make the politicians and LEO’s happy. I’ve never owned a stainless barrel and I’m looking for suggestions. My options are the following: 1. Pin and weld. 2. Weld 360 degrees or 4 small welds at 90 degrees. 3. Silver solder using 1100 degree silver solder. I have experience and the equipment to do any of them. However, with the satin coating on the barrel, I want to try to avoid any discoloration from heating. I like prefer the silver solder method, but I’m unsure of the impact of heating the barrel to about 1200 degrees to allow the solder to flow. Any suggestions/opinions or experience would be greatly appreciated! Carl is asking if those are the only options that your LEO's are allowing you to do. Are there restrictions as to how you have to go about securing your muzzle break to your gone? From what I'm being told any of those methods could be potentially harmful to your barrel. "Brownell makes a cold silver solder that runs at 475º if you can use that. "The FEDS say 1100 degree solder so it is PERMANENT. Several companies will do their brakes and pin them for you that can be judiciously reworked and taken off even after welding. I have seen several posts on DIY using sets screws and then welding them in place. Very sanitary and will not ruin the barrel when done right. Greg PS: To clean a brake out use the new foaming cleaners followed by auto brake cleaner and you will be GTG. It will take out all the carbon etc with no muss, no fuss, and about 20 minutes of your time. |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 29, 2011 21:11:07 GMT -8
Several gunsmiths in the area are having them just lightly pined in NY State. This includes Gander mt. in some of their S&W specials with the mikulek brake. I was surprised to find out but that is the way they are doing it.
Cheers.
E.
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Post by rswarden on Oct 12, 2011 18:23:43 GMT -8
I once had a Wilson Combat break on an M-15 A2. Back in the Assault Weapons Ban days. Wilson Combat provided a set screw and a drilled and tapped hole in the side of the break. Instructions said, to install the break, mark the barrel where the hole is. With a drill put a small dimple in the barrel. Reinstall the break, install the set screw, fill the hole over the set screw. I worked at a stainless steel fabricator, so one of the welders filled the hole, and one of the finishers buffed it out. Looked really good.
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