|
Post by gunmutt on May 26, 2012 16:49:52 GMT -8
Okay I just received my new BHW barrel and almost ready for a break in but what would be a non-copper removing solvent? Everything I've got says it removes copper( hoppes No.9 to Otis). Is just a simple Rem oil all I need?
|
|
|
Post by GLSHOOTER on May 26, 2012 18:54:10 GMT -8
Okay I just received my new BHW barrel and almost ready for a break in but what would be a non-copper removing solvent? Everything I've got says it removes copper( hoppes No.9 to Otis). Is just a simple Rem oil all I need? He is referring to the heavy Sweets stuff, ammonia containing solutions, if I am thinking right. I've been using Shooters Choice and it works well. Greg
|
|
|
Post by oz on May 27, 2012 23:28:44 GMT -8
Sounds like you watched the Magpul "Art of Precision Rifle" DVD? It's a great theory and one with which seems to make sense.
I was looking for a non-copper remover as well. Bore Tech has a solution designed to remove carbon / heavy carbon fouling.
I picked up a bottle. The guess is that we leave copper and carbon behind when we shoot. Remove the carbon, you leave the copper.
|
|
|
Post by GLSHOOTER on May 28, 2012 20:34:24 GMT -8
Sounds like you watched the Magpul "Art of Precision Rifle" DVD? It's a great theory and one with which seems to make sense. I was looking for a non-copper remover as well. Bore Tech has a solution designed to remove carbon / heavy carbon fouling. I picked up a bottle. The guess is that we leave copper and carbon behind when we shoot. Remove the carbon, you leave the copper. I would say that is possible. I will also say that over the course of a barrels life you best be taking some of that copper out if you want it to keep shooting well. YMMV Greg
|
|
|
Post by chinaheart on May 29, 2012 8:10:02 GMT -8
Sounds like you watched the Magpul "Art of Precision Rifle" DVD? It's a great theory and one with which seems to make sense. I must say that I've always wanted to get rid of carbon as well as copper. I thought most of us were in the same mindset. Heck, Hogdon just came out with a powder specifically designed to remove copper. (CFE223). For those of us that haven't watched it, what's the idea behind keeping copper fouling?
|
|
|
Post by jmehrten on Jun 6, 2012 20:07:58 GMT -8
I am a fan of Shooter's Choice, but it DOES remove copper. It id gentle enough to leave bores wet with it. Im an accuracy nut; I find that a barrel takes a few shots to settle in after copper removal, and on rough un-lapped commercial grade bores, copper removal is necesssary at some point. good custom barrels also, but they will usually take a lot more shots. I have a Savage 110 that has about 6K rounds thru it and is needing a rebarrel. throughout the life of this rifle, it started losing its accuracy after about 100 rounds without copper removal. I'd just run a patch soaked with SHooter's Choice thru the bore, let sit overnight, and run patches thru til they came out clean, then if I was going to store it, I left the bore damp with Shooter's choice. it takes 3 or 4 shots to settle down after the cleaning.
I have found Kroil to be an excellent solvent, and it is REALLY good to remove lead fouling from a .22. It doesnt seem to be particularly powerful on copper, but it cuts carbon great.
Another great solvent is Ed's Red- you mix it from stuff you can buy at a local auto parts store, and it more or less leaves copper alone. Recipe is all over the Internet.
|
|
|
Post by oz on Jun 6, 2012 21:19:20 GMT -8
Yeah, Kroil is a good option. The stuff I got was "C4 Carbon Remover" www.boretech.com/products/carbonremover.shtmlI used it for the first time last night. 1st patch is black. Then a nylon brush and let it sit for 5 minutes. 2nd patch is just about as black. a few patches later it's light brown, they gray, then pretty much clean. At no point is there *any* sign of green or blue (copper) on the patches. I think Kroil might do something similar, but for the cost, the C4 Carbon Remover will be less $ per patch. I always finish with Kroil. I know the theory is that the copper is taking up some space (very minor but enough to affect the projectile's movements. The copper on copper is also going to slide differently that copper on steel/chrome on which some of the copper is being removed and transferred to the steel/chrome. The issue specifically was "cold bore shot". Not about a cold barrel at all, but rather that the first shot flies much differently the the 2nd shot because it's laying down the copper for the first time. I heard someone say that by the 10th round, enough copper has been laid down that it no longer alters shot placement by rounds 10-20. so, the different between shot 1 and 2 is far more significant than shot 10 to 20. One solution if you like to remove all the copper after every outing, next time you go to the range, you just need to fire 10 rounds and then the shot-to-shot consistency will be back. Or just remove the carbon and leave the copper and your first shot should be very similar to the last shot you took on your previous outing. In theory.
|
|
|
Post by bhwoodsman on Jun 7, 2012 10:33:34 GMT -8
I am also a fan of Shooter's Choice. It is a very good bore cleaner. I use it specifically to remove copper and lead. It's probably the best solvent I've found to date for that chore.
Ed's Red. I was surprised to see it mentioned here. I mix batches of the stuff for myself, and because of the volume or "serving size" always have some for friends and relatives. Works great and is inexpensive. Really cleans carbon and old lube up nicely but doesn't really do a good job on copper or lead removal. It is very toxic. Adding the lanolin to it makes for a great storage lube. Kind of like the old CLP we used in the military. Sure don't want to get it on finished wood stocks or on any of that questionable plastic stuff.
|
|
244
Junior Member
Posts: 18
|
Post by 244 on Jun 10, 2012 23:11:31 GMT -8
It will remove copper, but I find this stuff does an excellent job of cleaning a bore with minimal fuss or time, especially when used with their Accelerator product: www.sharpshootr.com/wipeout.htmIf you don't leave it sit for too long, it will take the carbon and leave most of the copper, from what I've observed.
|
|
rnish
New Member
Posts: 5
|
Post by rnish on Jul 24, 2012 14:28:03 GMT -8
"Ballistol"
|
|
|
Post by flutedbull204 on Jul 25, 2012 7:12:12 GMT -8
This is all very helpful, thank you much!!
|
|
|
Post by flexbravo on Jan 12, 2013 22:29:26 GMT -8
I also make up Ed's Red and I still have some Hoppes #9 laying around too.
|
|