Post by GLSHOOTER on Nov 7, 2014 9:07:52 GMT -8
Just a quick how to on 22X6.8 case forming.
I use mostly Wilson bushings as they have bit more chamfer leading into the sizer but Reddings are perfectly fine. Remenber NUMBERS UP.
First set the die up to size a 6X6.8 to nominal shoulder height. My FC once fired measures 1.357 with a Hornady rig and a 350 insert. If you don't have one just make up the tool with a 9 MM case and set your die to bump back and size the case 0.007 with them or to to 1.350 at the datum line using the Hornady tool. . Do that with a standrd size 299 or you can even do it without a bushing. The die will size it down but I like the 299 just to square things up and get it going. Be sure and CHAMFER the outside of the cases!! I do both at this step as it will be needed later. FLOAT the bushing by backing it off from tight by about 1/16 turn. That helps as the mouth enters the case. These bushings actually never go all the way down to the shoulder/neck junction but not to worrry.
At this point your die is set. It probably will not be touching the shell holder or if so very lightly. Lock that puppy down.
Now swap to a next size bushing like a 287. Make sure you float it about 1/16. Now a 279-280 followed by a 269 or so. The jump from 269 to the final 251 is doable but I prefer to do an intermediate step. of 260. I know it seems like a lot of work but it goes fast.
Now the secret. I run the ram up to touch the mouth agaisnt the bushing and then stop. I then "pop" it up into the bushing as opposed to just making a stroke from beginning to end. Be sure and lube the cse necks when you form. It is so much easier.
Incrementaly you can make jumps of 0.020 but the slow method keeps the necks a bit square and brass seems to be less thicker on side to side.
Now you have pulled the expander button right after the first sizing as a 6.8? The trick here is to go two ways. Swap out the smaller decapping 223 size rod and the pin holder that does not expand the necks or take the rod all the way off and drop that round black button ON TOP of the bushing and screw in the top bolt to hold everything in place. I decap prior to cleaning with a Universal Decapper so I don't worry about it.
One thing I also do as I get down to the last two steps I float the bushing maybe an extra 1/16 turn so it would be a total of 1/8. Dont worry the cases will enter your chamber easily. You need to check that they do fit as you might have to do a bit more shoulder bump say to 1.348 for your set up but 1.350 works for all my 6.8 variants.
That ought to get you going. I don't trim after the process as they are never too long. After firing I just run them through the die that I have not moved and the 251-250 bushing. The FC brass tends to vary in thickness and one would be well served to go 250-249 on all of it if you are seeing a lot of variance in your brass.
Greg
I use mostly Wilson bushings as they have bit more chamfer leading into the sizer but Reddings are perfectly fine. Remenber NUMBERS UP.
First set the die up to size a 6X6.8 to nominal shoulder height. My FC once fired measures 1.357 with a Hornady rig and a 350 insert. If you don't have one just make up the tool with a 9 MM case and set your die to bump back and size the case 0.007 with them or to to 1.350 at the datum line using the Hornady tool. . Do that with a standrd size 299 or you can even do it without a bushing. The die will size it down but I like the 299 just to square things up and get it going. Be sure and CHAMFER the outside of the cases!! I do both at this step as it will be needed later. FLOAT the bushing by backing it off from tight by about 1/16 turn. That helps as the mouth enters the case. These bushings actually never go all the way down to the shoulder/neck junction but not to worrry.
At this point your die is set. It probably will not be touching the shell holder or if so very lightly. Lock that puppy down.
Now swap to a next size bushing like a 287. Make sure you float it about 1/16. Now a 279-280 followed by a 269 or so. The jump from 269 to the final 251 is doable but I prefer to do an intermediate step. of 260. I know it seems like a lot of work but it goes fast.
Now the secret. I run the ram up to touch the mouth agaisnt the bushing and then stop. I then "pop" it up into the bushing as opposed to just making a stroke from beginning to end. Be sure and lube the cse necks when you form. It is so much easier.
Incrementaly you can make jumps of 0.020 but the slow method keeps the necks a bit square and brass seems to be less thicker on side to side.
Now you have pulled the expander button right after the first sizing as a 6.8? The trick here is to go two ways. Swap out the smaller decapping 223 size rod and the pin holder that does not expand the necks or take the rod all the way off and drop that round black button ON TOP of the bushing and screw in the top bolt to hold everything in place. I decap prior to cleaning with a Universal Decapper so I don't worry about it.
One thing I also do as I get down to the last two steps I float the bushing maybe an extra 1/16 turn so it would be a total of 1/8. Dont worry the cases will enter your chamber easily. You need to check that they do fit as you might have to do a bit more shoulder bump say to 1.348 for your set up but 1.350 works for all my 6.8 variants.
That ought to get you going. I don't trim after the process as they are never too long. After firing I just run them through the die that I have not moved and the 251-250 bushing. The FC brass tends to vary in thickness and one would be well served to go 250-249 on all of it if you are seeing a lot of variance in your brass.
Greg
