BHW .264LBC and bullet weights

[toolsofthetrade]

I have been trying unsuccessfully to load some of the heavier bullets in this caliber with my BHW barrel, I have tried 120-129gr bullets from Hornady and Barnes, they all keyhole, not completely, but you can see the bullet upset.
I have gotten good results this past weekend with 100gr Barnes, and with some custom made 116gr Nosler Accubonds, what have you guys been using?
I also have had good results with 95gr Vmaxes, I was looking for a sturdier bullet for deer +/- size game.
With these results I am leary of even trying to load some of the famed 123gr Amaxes.

What have you guys used successfully for deer plus sized game in a BHW barrel (or other 1-9 twist 6.5/.264lbc.?

[durhamster]

I have been having good luck loading 129 gr Hornady sst..

I have used Hornady, AA. brass.

I use Hornady dies.

I had problems until I switched to RCBS case lube.
It is a mess, but it works for me.

I switched to RCBS lube because when I resized my 7.62X39 winchester brass to 264 I had problem with all the other products I tried.

[toolsofthetrade]

what powder are you using?

[melbakid]

durhamster,
You might try using "Imperial Sizing and Die Wax" instead of RCBS case lube. I used RCBS for 20 years, switched to the spray lubes for about 10 years. Still had the occasional stuck case. Been using Imperial Wax for 8 years now and have not had a stuck case since. Very easy product to use. A little goes a long way!

[Deleted]

I would forget about the 130grainers for now. those have to spin faster.
An Amax 123 or a Berger 120gr VLD should stabilize with the 9 twist w/o any problems. There is something else going on. Are you 100% sure it is 1:9? Have you verified the twist yourself?
Thanks

[Deleted]

Do you know the speed spreads you are getting?

Steps I would follow gradually, if the first didn't give me an answer then go to the next:
- Verify all measures and concentricity of the round after reload. ..use a dummy load.
- Verify the rate of twist myself.
- Inspect the lands make sure they didn't get damaged somehow.
- Verify concentricity of the bullet after chambered.
- Swag the given 120gr bullet down the barrel. This must be done very carefully with the right tools.

This will give you a few important variables about internal ballistics.

[oz]

Another critical question... How long is your barrel?

[Deleted]

oz, great point!
so to clarify correctly you can shoot commercial ammo and shoots fine and the reloads not with similar bullets? If this is not correct go and get a hornady box of ammo and shot it first thing and let us know. If they shoot ok the first thing to inspect IMO would be to look for a concentricity issue with the seater die. ? Try another set of dies maybe?. Redding are very good.

I am thinking out loud ... just trying to assist...

[toolsofthetrade]

I have a 20" barrel, i have not checked the rifeling twist myself, just taking it for granted that it is what BHW says it is, I will check.
I have only shot the factory 123 Amaxes by hornady, I have not yet tried to load them myself, need to get the time to do that.
Some have said the bullets may be too long (bearing surface), I will report back when I get time to do more testing.

[oz]

20" should allow a significantly heavier bullet than a 16" at the same twist.

I would think that a 129 grain should be fine for a 20" 1:9. That's the barrel I having coming as well, but I was planning to focus on the 123 grain, that should be a sweet spot. Especially for a polygonal rifled barrel... a few extra FPS and all.

Have you used a bullet seating gauge and micrometer to ensure your projectiles aren't too far from barrel contact? If you don't, it's could be that the projectiles are seated too deep for that particular barrel and the bullets aren't hitting the "lands" square when they leave the brass. Some rifles like having that bullet in contact and some like just a bit of distance. It will take some experimenting to find the best seating depth.

That's just a thought that comes to mind --and something you can check if you haven't already.

Oz

[Deleted]

hornady factory 123 Amaxes and they keyhole?
What is the barrel twist you bought? whatever says in the bill.
Thanks

[Deleted]

I just read through your other post. You say your barrel shoots 123 Amax factory loads. You also said it will shoot 95 and 100 grain bullets, correct? If you have tried all these bullets and a few powders, the common denominator is the loading. I would check your run out. The longer the bullet gets the more concentricity becomes a factor. It won't shoot if it starts down the barrel out of line.

The Hornady 123 Amax is 1.240 long The 129 grain interlock is 1.169 long, this might be worth a try.

[Deleted]

Nov 19, 2011 10:16:16 GMT -8 toolsofthetrade said:

I have only shot the factory 123 Amaxes by hornady, I have not yet tried to load them myself, need to get the time to do that.

Just to be clear, are the factory loads the ones keyholing? I think so as you said did not reload any rounds yet.
If so what is the twist you received?
Thanks.

[Deleted]

Nov 19, 2011 16:44:57 GMT -8 @sergiomartinez said:

Nov 19, 2011 10:16:16 GMT -8 toolsofthetrade said:

I have only shot the factory 123 Amaxes by hornady, I have not yet tried to load them myself, need to get the time to do that.

Just to be clear, are the factory loads the ones keyholing? I think so as you said did not reload any rounds yet.
If so what is the twist you received?
Thanks.

Read the thread 4 down the list from this one. He already answered your question.

[irishman]

key holeing is more likely a symptom of too slow of a twist for a heavy bullet than anything else which needs the proper velocity, to stabilize, everything else affects accuracy more, but I am still learning.