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Post by GLSHOOTER on Oct 8, 2013 9:58:21 GMT -8
Not available.
Greg
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Post by lkrbuilder13 on Dec 10, 2013 18:02:12 GMT -8
Hey Rich, has the reamer been made yet for this? Is there a way to calculate what the pressures and velocity should be for this? I am green at wildcats like this but by the looks of the case I would assume that it might hang with the 22-250, but looks can be deceiving. I am just wondering what the thought process is with doing this kind of stuff.
Thank you
Brian
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2013 18:48:27 GMT -8
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Post by lkrbuilder13 on Dec 10, 2013 19:33:00 GMT -8
Thanks Ritch, I read that post a while ago and thought I saw something on the 22x68 but couldn't remember where. I would have loved to win the 6.5 barrel but now that I have been thinking about it the 22 would be sweet. There are too many options and I feel like a kid in the candy store. First thing is the 450 bushy for deer here in IN. Then 20 prac? I have not used the bushing dies but from what Greg says you guys have made it pretty simple to do it. Thank you for the time, and money you guys have spent developing these rounds that us without the knowledge and experience that you possess would otherwise never be able to experience. Thank you Brian |
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Post by lkrbuilder13 on Dec 15, 2013 17:33:52 GMT -8
I guess it makes a lot of sense what you and Ritch are doing. I am sure if you were to AI a wildcat like this it would be super expensive to get the dies plus everything would have to be fireformed . It would make it ridiculously expensive and difficult to get dies and at that point you might be better to build a 22-250 in an ar10 platform. Thanks again for looking at the options that are reasonable for the average person looking to try something different.
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Post by midwestpredator on Dec 15, 2013 18:05:39 GMT -8
well if you guys really want to compare the 22x6.8 to a 22-250 and actually compare apples to apples then just send a barrel and some parts to build an upper my direction. Ill throw the upper together and then I can do some serious side by side comparisons to my UMAR 22-250.
Id be more than happy to help! lol  |
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Dec 15, 2013 20:04:31 GMT -8
well if you guys really want to compare the 22x6.8 to a 22-250 and actually compare apples to apples then just send a barrel and some parts to build an upper my direction. Ill throw the upper together and then I can do some serious side by side comparisons to my UMAR 22-250.
Id be more than happy to help! lol LOL Chronographs give numbers no matter what launches the bullets. I would say that the 22-250's that Ritch and I own won't see a lot of action in the US future. Greg |
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bt8541
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Post by bt8541 on Dec 15, 2013 20:09:33 GMT -8
What kind of performance do you think you will get from an 18 inch tube with this round?
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Dec 15, 2013 20:12:50 GMT -8
The 6.8FORUMS Same basic case that the neck has been trimmed 1MM. ARP did them awhile back. I don't think he changed the shoulder but I am not sure of that. Another one is the 22PDK . The sholder is blown forward on it and the angle is changed. As far as I can tell It and the 22 DTI are virtually identical. Choice of barrel and die availability are extremely important in all these 'cats. Many 'smiths think these up and then will take forever to deliver the product. Boutique cartridges are all over the place. Ease of obtaining them is the strong point on all of this series in concert with available non-custom dies. Greg I guess it makes a lot of sense what you and Ritch are doing. I am sure if you were to AI a wildcat like this it would be super expensive to get the dies plus everything would have to be fireformed . It would make it ridiculously expensive and difficult to get dies and at that point you might be better to build a 22-250 in an ar10 platform. Thanks again for looking at the options that are reasonable for the average person looking to try something different. The DTI and PDK are improved 6.8 cases. They have 30 degree shoulder angles not the classic AI 40. Performance between them and the BHW cartidges when loaded sanily is so close as to be laughable. Don't believe the PDK data though. Based on our testing some of it is as hot as a black Corvette in the middle of a Phoenix summer and that my friend is pretty darn hot. Greg |
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Dec 15, 2013 20:18:37 GMT -8
What kind of performance do you think you will get from an 18 inch tube with this round? All our data is from a 24"tube. Subtract about 150 fps and you will be close. A 70 at 3000 and a 55 at 3400 +or - ought to be doable. We designed it for long range performance so the tubes were ordered for it. The others are all 22". Greg |
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Post by lkrbuilder13 on Dec 15, 2013 20:34:06 GMT -8
I don't own a black corvette nor have I been to AZ period, let alone in the summer, but I'll take your word for it and I'll sit back to watch the load data come in when you guys get done testing.LOL:) Thanks Greg
Brian
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Post by Deleted on Dec 16, 2013 15:24:35 GMT -8
The steps I make brass:
I start with a Wilson .287 bushing. This is the same bushing I use for the 6.5X68, next is the .267 Wilson bushing, and the final step is a Wilson .250. The reason I prefer Wilson over Redding or the other manufactures is the radius on the lead going into the bushing its self. The only thing that can be a little tricky is floating the bushing up so you don't get the flat shoulder. This is very easy once you try it. The last batch of brass I made like this, I never lost a single piece.
The good part about using these steps in the bushings are they are the exact sizes for the other 6.8 family. I turn the .287 upside down for the 6.5. The .267 is the 6X68. All that is needed to change from one caliber to another is a Hornady seating die of the correct caliber.
For the 20 Practical the forming is much the same but only involves 1 step. Using a 223 Redding full length S die and a .225 bushing make one pass and you have a 20 Prac. I use a Hornady 204 Ruger for a seating die. I have been told a 223 seating will work, but I have not tried it.
The Redding size die has a decapping stem just like any other size die. They even come with an expander ball as well as a decapping pin retainer nut. This is an under size expander that holds the decapping pin. It is smaller than the inside neck diameter of the brass so it will not touch the inside of the neck.
Greg
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Post by GLSHOOTER on Dec 16, 2013 17:04:35 GMT -8
One other little thing is to use the decapping assembly from a 223 as the 6.8 is too fat to go down that far. I just run the undersized pin holder to avoid touching the necks with an expander ball.
I did what Ritch does the other day swapping bushings and went from 6.8 to 22 makng 50 at each level for each variant without a hitch. Floating the bushing is the key to pretty cases.
Greg
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Post by lkrbuilder13 on Dec 16, 2013 17:45:28 GMT -8
One other little thing is to use the decapping assembly from a 223 as the 6.8 is too fat to go down that far. I just run the undersized pin holder to avoid touching the necks with an expander ball. I did what Ritch does the other day swapping bushings and went from 6.8 to 22 makng 50 at each level for each variant without a hitch. Floating the bushing is the key to pretty cases. Greg I need to get my hands on a set of these dies so I can see what you are talking about when you say "floating the bushing". Sooner or later I will get some. The last I checked midway still was out of stock of the 6.8 s die. |
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Post by midwestpredator on Dec 16, 2013 18:03:37 GMT -8
That's good to know about the Wilson bushings. On the Redding the bushing is very easy to set up, and like Greg said, you float them. You turn down the top screw until it touches the bushing then back it off 1/16 turn so the bushing is free to center up on the case. I have been loading for over 45 years so it is hard to teach an old dog new tricks. I am still using a single stage press because when I load, 100 rounds at a time is max so I really do not need, or want, a progressive. Using a single stage give you lots of opportunities to inspect your cases and get intimately familiar with each step. One also develops routine, for better or worse. When I load I take the decap and expander button out of all my sizing dies. On the Redding Bushing die you cannot just remove the decap rod because it is in there to hold the busing seat in place. I use a bolt with the head cut off and blue Lock-Tite the bolt in the seat to hold seat in place so I can completely remove the decap stem.I decap with a universal decap die. Tumble clean. Size. Expand with an M die. The M die only expands the neck, it does not decap and it takes the place of the neck expander ball on the decap rod in the sizer die. This also cuts down on trimming. The M die expands the neck going IN to the case, not coming OUT of the case like it does if you use the decap/expanding button on the sizing die. I have demonstrated this dozens of time to 'pupils' I have tutored in reloading. By using the expander ball on a sizing die you can stretch your case length up to .003 inch on rounds like the .300 Weatherby. The bigger the case, the more the stretch. Using the M dies does not stretch the case an that leads to less trimming, my least liked part of reloading. You can also use the M die to slightly bell the mouth of the case if you are using flat based bullets or cast bullets. Then the case is off to the trimmer if needed to reduce the OAL of the case or to even up the cases to the same length. Chamfer the case mouth inside and out. Clean the primer pockets. On the first loading I will de-burr the inside of the flash hole. This is a job you only have to do once, like case forming. Prime, Charge, Seat, Crimp. Yes, I crimp in a separate step if I am going to crimp. As you can see, I do a LOT of steps that others would never think about doing. But as I said, old dog! As you get more into reloading you learn what works for you and what does not. Usually there are several different ways to an end and all of them can be correct so long as you are producing the desired results. You sure can! just take the round black nut off of the de-capping stem(the one that locks it on) and place that on top of the bushing. That is all that holds the bushing in place anyway. When I do my re-sizing(6x6.8) I run my brass through a 6mm rem fl die to de-cap and then I lube the cases and run them through my type s die. No need for lube on the decapping stage as the brass does not make contact on any part of the die.
All of my loading is done on an old single stage CH4D "C" press that my dad handed down to me. Like you said, for good or worse, it allows lots of opportunity to inspect cases and get into a certain routine. I find this helps to minimize errors and "oopsies" in my process. I seem to be able to turn out some dang accurate ammo so I haven't bothered to change anything just yet. Course a rock chucker would be a nice upgrade for some of the larger calibers, maybe if I find one at a garage sale or something for cheap Ill buy one until then, if it aint broke....
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