Gas Block related question

[nate]

Hi folks. Hope everyone is doing well. I have another couple quick questions that I hope someone can answer for me.

First, do BHW barrels come predrilled on the bottom of the barrel for set screws of gas blocks?

Second, when I order my barrel, would it be possible to have it made with the gas block seat part of the barrel trimmed back to say only 1.5in instead of the usual length?

The Diamondhead VRS-T handguard that I want to use is going to require that I use a Midwest Industries Micro Block, which is only 1.5in in length. Any longer gas block would stick out stick out from the end of the handguard and look totally odd. I also don't want the part of the barrel where it transitions from the gas block diameter to the front diameter to be showing either. So I would need a shorter gas block seat length.  I suppose I could go with a longer handguard if I absolutely had to. Just might have to go with an 18in barrel if it comes down to it. But I'd really like to do a 16in build.

Sorry for stupid questions.

[GLSHOOTER]

Dec 14, 2013 19:17:26 GMT -8 nate said:

Hi folks. Hope everyone is doing well. I have another couple quick questions that I hope someone can answer for me.

First, do BHW barrels come predrilled on the bottom of the barrel for set screws of gas blocks?

Second, when I order my barrel, would it be possible to have it made with the gas block seat part of the barrel trimmed back to say only 1.5in instead of the usual length?

The Diamondhead VRS-T handguard that I want to use is going to require that I use a Midwest Industries Micro Block, which is only 1.5in in length. Any longer gas block would stick out stick out from the end of the handguard and look totally odd. I also don't want the part of the barrel where it transitions from the gas block diameter to the front diameter to be showing either. So I would need a shorter gas block seat length.  I suppose I could go with a longer handguard if I absolutely had to. Just might have to go with an 18in barrel if it comes down to it. But I'd really like to do a 16in build.

Sorry for stupid questions.

Not stupid questions at all.

The barrels have a dimple for placement/location of the gas block. They are not drilled for set screws. Way to many spacings out there to even attempt it.

I doubt if they can bring that step back further as these are turned with a CNC program for the most part and programing that cut might be an issue. Once again the specific fitting of a given part is almost impossible even though these are small quantity production

You might give them a call at the contact number HERE on this board.

Greg

Greg

[nate]

Thanks for the answers. Just worried that I might not line the gas block up properly. I guess I'm just being a little paranoid not really knowing much about building a rifle. I've been studying up on everything and know I can do it, I'm mechanically inclined and all. I'm just afraid of doing something wrong and ruining something I'm putting a lot of time and money into, and worse yet hurting myself or someone else.

Another question I've been pondering lately having read numerous forums and articles online is the twist rate of the rifling. If I'm understanding what I've read, 1:7 is good for heavier projectiles, and 1:9 is good for lighter ones. So why do the majority of people I've seen seem to give 1:8 a bad rap? Wouldn't a barrel with 1:8 twist be the proper compromise of being able to handle anything from a 55gr bullet up to say a 77gr round? That is ultimately what I want out of my barrel, versatility and the ability to shoot pretty much anything accurately. I'm not building a match gun, just something I can plink and hunt with.

Is there an optimum bullet weight I should consider using for 1:8?

[Deleted]

Dec 17, 2013 10:24:18 GMT -8 nate said:

Thanks for the answers. Just worried that I might not line the gas block up properly. I guess I'm just being a little paranoid not really knowing much about building a rifle. I've been studying up on everything and know I can do it, I'm mechanically inclined and all. I'm just afraid of doing something wrong and ruining something I'm putting a lot of time and money into, and worse yet hurting myself or someone else.

Another question I've been pondering lately having read numerous forums and articles online is the twist rate of the rifling. If I'm understanding what I've read, 1:7 is good for heavier projectiles, and 1:9 is good for lighter ones. So why do the majority of people I've seen seem to give 1:8 a bad rap? Wouldn't a barrel with 1:8 twist be the proper compromise of being able to handle anything from a 55gr bullet up to say a 77gr round? That is ultimately what I want out of my barrel, versatility and the ability to shoot pretty much anything accurately. I'm not building a match gun, just something I can plink and hunt with.

Is there an optimum bullet weight I should consider using for 1:8?

Not getting the gas block lined up is a problem, but not a catastrophic mistake. All that will occur is your rifle won't cycle properly. If you use the dimple it is a simple process to get it right the first time.

Don't listen to some one bashing the 1 in 8 twist. It can't be all bad, that is what every M4 the military has in service is using. If the 1 in 7 was the way to go, I guarantee you they would shoot 1 in 7 twist barrels. An 8 will shoot every bullet weight up to 80 grains and shoot it well.

[GLSHOOTER]

Dec 17, 2013 10:24:18 GMT -8 nate said:

Thanks for the answers. Just worried that I might not line the gas block up properly. I guess I'm just being a little paranoid not really knowing much about building a rifle. I've been studying up on everything and know I can do it, I'm mechanically inclined and all. I'm just afraid of doing something wrong and ruining something I'm putting a lot of time and money into, and worse yet hurting myself or someone else.

Another question I've been pondering lately having read numerous forums and articles online is the twist rate of the rifling. If I'm understanding what I've read, 1:7 is good for heavier projectiles, and 1:9 is good for lighter ones. So why do the majority of people I've seen seem to give 1:8 a bad rap? Wouldn't a barrel with 1:8 twist be the proper compromise of being able to handle anything from a 55gr bullet up to say a 77gr round? That is ultimately what I want out of my barrel, versatility and the ability to shoot pretty much anything accurately. I'm not building a match gun, just something I can plink and hunt with.

Is there an optimum bullet weight I should consider using for 1:8?

You could go with a clamp on but the rear screw is always under the hole in the block. That means putting that screw in the dimple will line you up just fine.

1:8 will handle up to the 80's without problem. I may be a tad fast for 40's but it will do the 50's. I shoot'em and the PD's don't like it one bit. The 1:7 is really a poor choice for multiple usage. The 1:9 is excellent for up to 69 and sometimes will do the Sierra 77's but sometimes not.

Greg

[nate]

Sorry I didn't get back here sooner. Been busy at work and home both with the Holidays.

Thanks for the answers and tips on bullet weights. For the life of me I couldn't understand why one group swears by 1:7, and another 1:9, yet they all seemed to look down on 1:8. Seems to me like 1:8 is the best of both worlds offering the ability to handle lighter 50's yet heavier 70's as well. Maybe it's that they're too set in their ways, or just fan boys of their current ratio and unwilling to possibly think something else could work as well.

Once I build my rifle I want to look into reloading and tailoring my own specific loads to the task at hand, but for the time being I'm stuck with whatever I can find in the local shops. The 62gr M885 seems to be the most abundant round I can get a hold of around here, as long as the barrel will do those accurately I'll be happy.


So far my loosely planned build is going to be:

Either Aero Precision or S.S.A forged Upper and Lower. The S.A.A are made by Aero as far as I can tell, and I really like the simple Rectile Logo on them, so I'm leaning heavily toward S.A.A. Going forged rather than billet for my first build.
BHW Standard profile barrel. Torn between 18 and 16 inches though. I'm open to suggestions on length. Does 18in offer an advantage?
Handguard I've narrowed down to either Midwest Industries SS Gen 1 in 12in length, or A Diamondhead VRS T in 13in. The Diamondhead looks really nice, and I'm leaning towards that with the 18in barrel.
Muzzle Device, I'm really liking the Griffin Flash/Comp. Especially if I go with the Midwest Industries handguard. Or the good old Yankee Hill Phantom flash hider/compensator.
Stocks are another mind boggling decision. I'm really liking the look of a plain old Skeleton Stock. I have long arms and the ability to adjust the stock really wouldn't matter to me as I'd have it open fully anyways.
Iron Sights I plan to go with the Diamondhead Dioptic, diamond shaped sights. Read very good reviews on them, and it seems the diamond shapes help you line up the sights better.
Trigger I'm strongly considering a prebuilt trigger assembly. Possibly the CMG Duty with the 5-6lb single stage trigger. 
Grip I'm looking at the Egro Over molded. Again, I'm a big guy with big hands, and need something that will feel substantial yet comfortable.
Mags, I'm hoping to get my grubby hands on the Pmag 20s, the straight body design. Really like the look of an AR with 20rd mags. I'll keep a couple 30s around in case Zombies attack or something, but I love the straight 20s.
Optics I have no idea. I have always shot rifles far better with regular/iron sights. So I'm not planning on dropping $600+ on an optic any time soon.

That's it so far. I want something that will serve multiple roles and still look cool doing it. I honestly need to build 2 rifles!! LOL... I have thoroughly enjoyed the whole research process so far and I've learned a ton. But I'm anxious to start the process of actually building the darn rifle.

[nate]

P.S.

MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!

[GLSHOOTER]

Good planes. I have about eight of the SAA uppers. The work fine. Unless you have to have the name I would buy the Brownell's magazines with CS springs. 18" will give you more velocity but with a muzzle device will be longer. Your call. I like speed but if I were only thinking 300-500 yards the 16" will do fine. The Phantom is GTG IMHO.

For trigger look at BTE drop in . They are the lowest price on the market and are right on 3.5 pounds. A super deal for what you want. Ritch and I have been shooting them about a month. Call George direct and tell him Greg sent you. Good things will happen. The site is: BTE The number is there and you can see other goodies to distract you.

Keep us posted.

Greg

PS: Merry Christmas too!!!!