After firing...fire forming or fully formed, how far does your brass throw out of the ejection port? Mine go from normal...4:00, 10 feet, to falling out of the ejection port, and sometimes stay in the port. Extraction is flawless, just not a consistent throw. I have a carbine weight buffer and spring. BCG is standard weight and a Daniel Defense bolt. Mid gas system. Hornady Brass. I mention the bolt because you guys have mentioned different case head depths. Maybe the Hornady brass and DD bolts aren't compatible with the depth....extractor not fully engaged? Any Suggestions?
Check your gas system. It could be anything from a broken gas ring to a loose gas block. Go over it closely you are loosing pressure somewhere.
Yes, please check the gas system first. My barrel is an 18" midlength gas with a DD bolt, BTE micro adjustable gas block and have had no issues "tossing the brass." I have used Federal, SSA and Remington brass. Was able to compare rim thickness. Remington brass has the same rim thickness as Hornady brass. Federal and SSA rims are thinner. Don't forget to check the gas key on the bolt carrier also.
I don't see where rim thickness can enter into this one at all. Perhaps I missed that class.
You might check the recoil buffer spring and one other little thing to look at is to make sure the ejector is moving smoothly and not hanging up altering pressure. Build up in small brass shavings in the tunnel can cause some similar problems
The best firearm for self defense? Any loaded one will do.
As usual, you guys are an awesome resource!! I'll check all that and get back to you. I'm ruling out the buffer spring. It's the same lower I use for my 6x45. That thing slings brass fine. I'll check all the other possibilities. I'm not worried about the brass falling out. It's the ones that don't that cause the problems...especially here in Cali with this darn bullet button mag release....it causes a half feed, jammed case issue.
another thing to check is the inside ridges of the ejector claw.
had one that was very sharp and grabbed the rims.
once the inside of the claw was buffed/smoothed with a dremel, ejection throws became more consistent.
+ 1 I don't usually do anything with the inside groove or the claw of the extractor, but I do round the leading edges of the extractor on all my builds now just as a matter of routine. I won't reinvent the wheel here but if you google ar-15 extractor fix you're bound to find several descriptions of it, almost everyone who does it does it close to the same. Since I've started doing this I've had exactly zero fail to extract/eject issues... excluding those on known-light loads that I didn't expect to eject.
Last Edit: Jun 22, 2015 10:02:51 GMT -8 by mosigdude
I have never done the ejector (plunger) but it sounds like an idea I might give some thought to if i have any that ever scratch the brass. The issue I think bobatl is describing is common with 6.5 grendel/264 LBC and also some of the 6.8 SPC-based cartridges, the edge of the extractor is sharp and digs into the brass, sometimes either halting or hindering complete ejection.
Post #3 in this link shows a good picture of what I'm talking about. The polish is nice but the reshaping of the edges of the extractor is really what I'm talking about. Notice how they are angled into the boltface instead of just square to the milled extractor slot on the bolt. Hopefully that makes sense in conjunction with the picture.
I polished the extractor to a nice shine. I dragged a cotton ball across all the surfaces that I polished and no snags. I called it good after that. There were a lot of brass shavings under the extractor when I disassembled it. Something was cutting those case rims. Hope this solved it. I put a fire formed dummy round and closed the bolt. Gave the charging handle a pull and it ejected at 4:00.